Step-Aside B&B in the Village of Gagetown, NB

May 8, 2007 6:30 pm
NB

As we continue in our quest to encourage readers to “See Canada from Sea-to-Sea-to Sea,” we decided to promote a little-known bed and breakfast in the Maritimes called Step-Aside B&B. Here you’ll find the genuine hospitableness and kindness that Maritimers are famous for. After journeying with my son to the Calgary Stampede (see our December 2006 issue), I decided it would be fun to take a quick long weekend trip with him to New Brunswick to see the Bay of Fundy, Magnetic Hill, Moncton Mid Saint John.

I also wanted to take a tour of the Saint John River Valley and visit the Village of Gagetown, which Harrowsmith Country Life Magazine has called “one of the ten prettiest towns in Canada.” Upon arrival in Saint John, my friend suggested we boat up the river to Gagetown, a resplendent summer’s afternoon journey that took us through some of the most scenic-landscapes in eastern Canada.

We arrived at dusk at the Village of Gagetown, a beautiful and charming community that

Step-Aside B&B

attracts boaters and tourists seeking a ‘step-back-in-time’ experience: pastoral scenes of rolling hills, farm fields, apple orchards, cattle grazing on interval islands, sailboats and rowel’s passing on Gagetown Creek, and ospreys and eagles languidly soaring overhead. The total effect makes visitors feel like they have stepped back into the 18th century. The town also attracts people of all ages seeking a great little community to live in. Gagetown has a wealth of heritage properties and two designated historic sites: the Queens County Court House Provincial Historic Site and Sir Leonard Tilley House National Historic Site. A real draw in the summer is a full-service marina and public boat launch ramp. The marina comes complete with fuel tanks, boat rentals, laundry services, showers and pump outs. Adjacent to the marina are a sports bar and restaurant (The Old Boot Pub).

Founded in 1758, the Village of Gagetown takes its name from Col. Thomas Gage, the original grantee. It shares its claim to be the oldest English settlement in the St. John River Valley with Bunon and Sheffield-Maugerville but, unlike them, on the arrival of the United Empire Loyalists in 1783, it was transformed into a well-laid-out village.

Gagetown is also a recognized birding area attracting over 260 species of waterfowl, shorebirds, raptors and songbirds. The marshes, islands and varied landforms surrounding Gagetown are a favourite destination for birders. During the spring migration, the islands nearby become a staging area for thousands of waterfowl, primarily black duck and common goldeneyes.

As we tied our boat to the community dock, we were met by Maurice and Elaine Harquail – proprietors of the Step-Aside B&B. With a spectacular view of the Saint John River, the Step-Aside B&B must be one of the Ten Best Bed and Breakfasts in Canada. This charming hostelry has four bedrooms, as well as a new deck and glass sitting room. It was named after the town of Step-Aside on the Burin Peninsula in Newfoundland. In the 1920s, a tsunami destroyed the town.

The Harquails are the penultimate hosts. A definite highlight of our two-day stay was breakfast served in the sitting room, which overlooks the river. Full breakfasts include homemade muffins, bread, jams and a wonderful selection of egg dishes served up with Maurice’s witty banter.

On our first night at Step-Aside, Maurice insisted that I drop by The Old Boot Pub, for a nightcap, which lasted for hours as the regular patrons and weekend boaters started up a regular down-home Kitchen Callee. You would be hard-pressed to find a pub in Ontario where people meet and have a drink or two and then within 30 minutes pull out the guitars and play the spoons for a real shivaree. Such is the wonderment of the Marinnies’ culture. A hearty breakfast the next morning did much to assist me in the post-pub recovery process.

When in the Village of Gagetown, plan to spend a little time strolling around. The village is home to some of New Brunswick’s finest artists and artisans. You can see their creations in shops, studios and a contemporary gallery. The village offers a guided walking tour of heritage properties and historic sites.

Gagetown also boasts a farm cidery and winery, craft stores outlets, small meat and grocery and liquor stores, a picnic area, cottages and a heritage inn.

A Midwinter’s Bite of the Big Apple

March 1, 2007 10:43 am
OLM_Mar07_NYC_StreetScene

Got the winter blues or a little cabin fever? Well here’s the cure: New York City. David Letterman is right when he calls it the greatest city in the world. It is. Put aside the fact that it is the commerce centre of the universe or that its storied history goes back over 400 years or that the New Yawk accent is almost as good as listening to a Newfie at a kitchen party. The city itself is a planning and architectural marvel and the sights and sounds it offers provide visitors with an overwhelming choice of destinations worth visiting.

The first thing we did was look for a great place to stay (and there are many) that was within walking distance of the subways (the best way to get around New York) and close to some of the attractions we wanted to visit. After some Internet searching, we chose the Buckingham Hotel in the heart of Manhattan. The Buckingham is located on the corner of 57th Street West and Avenue of the Americas, one block from Broadway near Carnegie Hall and two blocks from the entrance to Central Park. Located in the midst of New York’s world-famous cultural district, the Buckingham Hotel was built in 1929 in what is referred to as midtown. Internationally renowned concert halls, art galleries, museums, and schools of art and dance surround the hotel. The Buckingham has a friendly staff and all the modern amenities, including wireless and Internet access, a business centre and concierge, large bathtubs and really hot showers. The rooms are very clean, bright and spacious – designed with a retro look that took me back to the Roaring Twenties. There is no restaurant in the Buckingham, but that is no problem as there are so many places nearby catering to all tastes and open 24/7.

You can drive to New York from Ottawa in about seven hours but this time we chose to fly to get more time in the city. We flew into LaGuardia Airport and decided to take a shuttle bus from the airport to the hotel. The price was $17US per person. The good news is the shuttle goes right to the door of your hotel. The bad news is the shuttle is crammed full of people and you have to do the milk run, stopping at other hotels until the driver drops you off at yours. Overall it was not a bad experience. You see a great deal of Manhattan as you are driven about in the airport shuttle. The cost for two people to get a cab from LaGuardia is about $45US. Bottom line – take the cab. It gets you there faster and it’s worth the extra  $13. (We took a cab on the way back).

We checked into the Buckingham and took a walk around the block. We noticed a place called Nino’s Tuscany Restaurant (at 117 West 58th Street). It looked so inviting and we knew we were in for a treat as soon as we walked through the doors. Try Nino’s seafood antipasti; it’s literally to die for. My partner ordered the pasta with mushrooms and pancetta cream sauce while I tried the smoked chorizo sausage cooked in a spicy arabiatta tomato sauce with linguini. As Italian food goes, it doesn’t get any better than this place. The wines list was both extensive and reasonably priced. The service was excellent. The desserts were home-cooked and the espresso machine and after-dinner drinks helped cap off a perfect New York meal.

The next morning, we ventured out to a pâtisserie and coffee shop on the Great White Way before heading to Central Park, one of the true pleasures of the Big Apple. You can literally walk for miles and not feel like you are in the city. You get in the habit while in New York City of measuring distance by the number of blocks you walk. We walked about 91 city blocks on our fist day, including 30 blocks along the edge of Central Park as we made our way to the American Museum of Natural History. I’ve always wanted to visit this museum, especially after seeing Ben Stiller’s movie Night at the Museum this past Christmas. To fully appreciate the museum, you could probably spend a couple of days there visiting. We decided to go through the exhibits that met our personal interests. For me, that meant going through the Pacific West Coast Indian Exhibits and the Northeast Indian Exhibits. My partner wanted to see the ocean life exhibit. We both wanted to see the dinosaur exhibit and the animals of the world section. The Museum is 150 years old and built in the grand style of America’s Golden Age. We spent about five hours at the museum and could easily have spent another full day there.

Next up was Macy’s Department Store. Walking down Broadway puts your senses in visual overdrive. There is so much to see: the theatres, restaurants, shops and teeming humanity. Mostly you will remember the lights. I’ve never seen so many lit-up places at night. Between the lights and the people there is a constant energy in New York City that is truly remarkable. We felt perfectly safe walking around New York City — safer than we feel walking around downtown Ottawa at night. The police are very high-profile on the streets of Manhattan. The vendors are friendly. New Yorkers are friendlier than Ottawans, I must say. We enjoyed our 40-block walk and made sure we stopped at a pub on Broadway for a couple of pints to refuel before continuing our journey. We were lucky because we had entered an online lottery via CBS for the David Letterman show and were selected to attend. No one was as surprised as me when I got the call the day before we left saying we had been selected in the draw to be part of the next day’s audience. Late Night with David Letterman is at the old Ed Sullivan Theatre on Broadway.

After the show, we dropped by the Carnegie Deli for dinner. This was probably the only downer on the trip. Yes, it’s a deli but it is hugely overpriced – a smoked meat sandwich cost $12.95US. The desserts were also overpriced and not very tasty. It’s the only time on our trip when we both felt like we were being had. However, other smaller delis offer the traditional great food at affordable prices on many of the sidestreets. So, if you want to do the deli thing — go off-Broadway.

On our second full day in NYC, we hit the subway and headed to Brooklyn to take in the Annie Leibovitz: A Photographer’s Life: 1990-2005 visiting exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum. The subway is clean and cheap. Oh, if only Ottawa had something like this instead of a stupid Transitway. Entry to the Leibovitz exhibit cost $8US and was worth every penny. The exhibit was exceptionally well done, featuring a cross-section of the genius photographer’s public and private works over the last 30 years. The Brooklyn Museum is beautifully designed in the Grand Style and has a children’s area, a cafeteria and public parking. It is also directly on the NYC subway line, which is good, because it’s near a rough neighborhood – but no worse than many Ottawa districts you don’t want to be caught dead in after dark.

OLM_Mar07_NYC_Rockefeller

The NYC Rockefeller Centre

Next up was a subway ride back to Chinatown and then a walk to the SoHo District – one of New York’s hippest neighbourhoods, resplendent in the architecture of the Cast Iron Historic District. There are literally blocks of vendors selling every kind of watch and trinket imaginable. It was an incredibly brisk cold day and I was not dressed warmly enough. It only took moments for me to find a vendor who was selling quality 100% cotton sweaters at a very cheap price. SoHo is popular with professionals, artists, celebrities, musicians and the like; it’s a community unto itself, featuring beautiful refurbished heritage buildings, high-end fashion shops, open markets and an array of restaurants offering delicacies from all over the world. We came upon Il Corallo Trattoria at 172-176 Prince Street – truly one of the city’s finest little eateries. The atmosphere is intimate as the tables are very close together, but you still have enough space for private conversation. The food is lovingly made with the freshest and finest ingredients. We arrived at 5:30 pm; by 6:50 pm, the restaurant was full. That says it all. Next up was a visit to Rockefeller Centre. We skated on the fabled outdoor rink under the statue of Atlas. Then we walked around the NBC studios where Good Morning America and Saturday Night Live are shot. As we headed back to our hotel, we saw a restaurant advertising two-for-one martinis for $11US. Despite our state of pleasant exhaustion, we couldn’t pass on that deal. What a great way to end our NYC weekend. New York City really is a wonderful town.

Some Day at the Beach! Destination Weddings: Cuba

9:41 am
The Wedding Chapel at Paradisus Rio de Oro all-inclusive resort in Guardalavaca, on the northeast coast of Cuba.
Photo: Catherine Sand

When my brother-in-law announced his intention to wed in Cuba, my wife Trine literally jumped for joy. She had seriously considered holding our wedding party on a beach in the Caribbean, so she could get hitched while barefoot in the sand. I was happy too – I like a beach vacation as much as the next guy, but never having been to anything like this, I had no clue about the customs. As we made arrangements to attend, the big question loomed before me: What are the differences between a “normal” wedding and a destination wedding? This was my first trip to Cuba, so I was looking forward to fine cigars, smooth aged rum, crystal-clear water on fine white sand, and the friendliest people you’d ever want to meet. My brother-in-law Jens is a top-of-the-line kind of guy, so he and his wife-to-be Angela had reserved a week at a five-star resort near Guardalavaca, on the northeast coast of Cuba. The Paradisus Rio de Oro is an all-inclusive resort with private beaches and many free activities, including snorkelling, sailing, dance lessons, horseback riding, kayaking, pedal boats, windsurfing, tennis, volleyball and even Spanish lessons. I’m lazy, so I thought I’d just sit around the pool or lie on the beach, but I ended up trying a few things myself. I loved the sailing and dance lessons but a week just wasn’t enough time to try everything!The flight to Cuba was less than four hours and we were processed quickly at the Holguin airport. The resort’s modern bus picked us up for the short drive from the airport. I loved the scenery and all the carefully maintained classic cars on the road. The sight of palm trees waving in the tropical breeze is guaranteed to put you in a relaxed mood. Check-in at the hotel was fast and efficient – good news for us, given the late hour of our arrival.

OLM_June06_Cuba_snorkelling

Snorkelling is one of many activities included in your stay at the Paradisus Rio de Oro.

Sunday was our first full day in paradise and it was hot and sunny. Mind you, so was every other day we spent there. That’s the advantage of going in the summer; the disadvantage was unlucky fishing – our deep-sea fishing trip turned into a pleasant cruise completely uninterrupted by the appearance of any fish. Our skipper, a bearded Hemingway look-alike, kept the mood light with jokes, snacks and drinks while we chatted away the afternoon on the deck of our chartered motor yacht. A pleasant day for us – and the fish too!

The wedding was planned for Wednesday, so we had plenty of time to relax beforehand. My favourite activity was snorkelling. We saw clouds of tropical fish and beautiful coral formations only a few metres off the hotel beach. We had originally planned to go scuba diving, but we beheld so much on our snorkelling excursions that we never felt the need.

Jens and his three sons were more interested in sailing. Every day, they went out with an instructor on one of the Hobie Cats (a small sailing catamaran) that the resort provides for free. Everybody enjoyed swimming in the ocean several times a day and we would usually hit the swim-up bar at the pool around 4 o’clock. It was a nice place to cool off after a day on the beach.

Evenings were a time to rest after playing all day. We tried all the different restaurants, but the buffet restaurant was our favourite. Flambéed bananas may just be my all-time favourite dessert. After dinner, my wife and I would retire to the lobby bar for my evening cigar and rum. In Canada, I’ve always enjoyed my cigar with a good scotch; in Cuba, I was assured that the only way to truly appreciate the flavour of a good cigar was to have seven-year-old rum to sip along with it. I liked that combination so much I bought a couple of bottles of Havana Club to bring home with my cigars. We would usually watch a dinner show while I had my smoke. The entertainment was the usual cabaret-type stuff: dancing and singing with some audience participation thrown in now and then. I liked the jazz band that warmed up the crowd before the big show. It had a bluesy sound with some Latin flair to spice it up.

This prelude was just like the dreamy holiday experienced vacationers to Cuba have been bragging about for years, but what about the wedding? Well, that could not have been handled any more efficiently. Early in the week, Angela met with the resort’s wedding coordinator to arrange the details, such as the wedding schedule, the colour scheme, and the flowers. This is where I noted some significant differences between this wedding in Cuba and weddings I attended in Canada. We could wear more comfortable attire than usual (a definite plus); there was no need to bring a gift for the married couple (that could wait until we returned home); no driving was required as the wedding venue was only a short walk from the resort; and there was very little prep time (we swam in the ocean until an hour before the ceremony).

We were all very impressed with how smoothly the wedding went. The ceremony was simple, beautiful and over before we knew it! The spot the resort designated for the wedding was gorgeous. The guests gathered next to a gazebo on a point overlooking the water. The sun was shining and the sea lapped against the rocks as we drank free champagne and took pictures of the scenery. We sat in the shade from the trees lining the path to the gazebo and enjoyed a light, cooling breeze off the ocean. I remember thinking how different the setting was from all the church weddings I’ve been to in Canada. The scent of tropical flowers, the clean salt air and the casual atmosphere of people at ease made me wonder why more weddings aren’t held in this absolutely divine location.

OLM_Mar07_Cuba_Couple

The groom and bride, Jens and Angela, happily married and stress-free.

When was the last time you went to a wedding and wished the service was longer? In fact, my only complaint was that they should have taken more time. I was enjoying myself at the ceremony and then – bang! – it was over. The service lasted only a few minutes (admittedly, the bride and groom wanted it short and sweet) and then we were all feverishly snapping pictures and offering our congratulations. We walked down to the beach to take pictures of the bride and groom barefoot on the sand. Then we relaxed in the lobby bar, drinking and snacking until dinnertime. The reception was held in the more formal setting of the El Patio dining room. Other restaurants are available for the wedding dinner, but the cool, refined atmosphere of El Patio did seem the best choice. After a delicious meal and a few speeches, the staff surprised the bride and groom with a beautiful wedding cake and a violin serenade. We ended the night with another few rounds of mojitos in the lobby bar. Ah, Cuba!

So what is the best part of a destination wedding? Quite a few features kept it from being ordinary, but here is the defining difference: a destination wedding is a holiday for everyone involved. To avoid any semblance of the hectic activity that often plagues a weekend wedding, this event was held mid-week. Plenty of time to get ready for it while enjoying sand and surf. And think of all the times you have helped out after the wedding of a friend or family member. Cleaning up, organizing, transporting – somebody has to do the grunt work after the happy couple leaves. That’s the beauty of a destination wedding – the bride and groom are already on their honeymoon, and all the guests happen to be on vacation!

It puts a whole new spin on the expression “Cuba Libre”! We Canadians felt a tremendous sense of freedom in Cuba!

For more information, contact the Cuban Tourism Office at: (514) 875-8004 or e-mail: montreal@gocuba.ca

By Dale Hovdebo

The Cowboy Trail: A Father and Son Journey to the Calgary Stampede and Rocky Mountain Dude Ranch

January 8, 2007 12:37 pm
Featured

I’ve always dreamed of taking my son to the Calgary Stampede, visit a ranch, and then go horseback riding in the foothills and do some white water rafting in the Kananaskis River Valley. I thought it would be a great father-son trip. Knowing that my 10-year-old son loves the outdoors and animals, I figured he would have no hesitation in going on such a trek. So in July we packed our bags and flew direct to Calgary to do the cowboy thing.

It’s hard not to be impressed by Calgary. Upon arrival, you notice the modern and well-designed airport with well-placed signage and lots of coffee shops and other stores. The cowboy culture hits you immediately as you see local Calgarians walking around in their cowboy boots and hats. It was Calgary Stampede time: a 10-day citywide celebration of everything western, where everyone can become a cowboy. There is western dress, country-and-western music, western food, beer and wine, and western attitude and hospitality.

Fittingly, our Calgary Stampede experience started with a visit to the Alberta Boot Company (www.albertaboot.com). For over 25 years, the company has nurtured celebrities and regular folk who are intrigued by the mystique of the Wild West. As Alberta’s only boot manufacturer, the Alberta Boot Company is proud of its product, but what really sets this outfit apart from the competition is that its hand-crafted, custom-fit cowboy boots are actually manufactured on the premises. Such is the reputation of this boot maker that the RCMP, municipal police forces and military units have become regular clients. Of course, the Alberta Boot Company will provide the same service for anyone who walks through the door. To my surprise, my son was quick to identify some nice-looking cowboy boots and put them on within five minutes of entering the store. They were 100% leather with a solid heel and a comfortable look and feel. These boots were priced at S180. My son insisted he would wear them not only for our trip, but also as a regular day shoe when we returned home. So we got them. He is still wearing the boots and absolutely adores them.

Pancakes curbside at the Stampede Parade

We then headed over to the Alberta Hat Company. We got a close-up look at the craftsmen at work. One of the machines used to mould the hats was almost 100 years old… and the process today is pretty much the same as it was back then. We watched as the hat maker made the White Calgary Stampede hats famous the world over as a symbol of Cow-town. We walked out with two – now all we needed was a horse… and we knew that a steed was on its way.

That night, we tried the buffalo burgers at a local restaurant. The taste was very similar to beef – just a little richer, but delicious all the same. My son and I were both pumped for the next morning’s Calgary Stampede Pancake Breakfast followed by the parade. I’ve been to parades many times, but none comes close to this one. The variety of floats is highly entertaining – everything from mini-fire trucks to stagecoaches and mountain men. The Canadian Forces had a great contingent in the parade with an array of armoured personal carriers and jeeps. The parade lasted a good two hours with nary a dull moment. Each year, the City names a Queen of the Rodeo who leads the parade on horseback. This year, past Queens rode in the parade. There were Queens of the Parade from as far back as 1952 and 1953. So if do the math, you have to figure these ladies are now in their early-to-mid-seventies and still roping and riding. That was impressive.

Next it was off to the Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth, with 1,100 events scheduled every year. When an event brands itself as “the greatest,” that is a high calling and Calgary has certainly earned its spurs in this regard. The Stampede Grounds cover a whopping 137 acres. Guy Weadick, a famous working cowboy and vaudeville entertainer, launched the Stampede in 1912. It has since grown to become a volunteer-supported, not-for-profit community organization that aims to preserve and promote western heritage and values, while providing programs that foster understanding of the agricultural industry in Canada’s west. On top of that, it’s one helluva big party.

Milking the Stampede for all its worth

The Rodeo is not to be missed. The Stampede provides the performing cowboys with some of the richest payouts in the rodeo world. From saddle bronc, bareback-riding, bull-riding and the famous chuck wagon races, there is enough rugged excitement for everyone. We were trackside for the chuck wagon racing – a highly skilled sport that requires nerves of steel. There are 32 horses on the track per race between the horses attached to the chuck wagons and the riders running beside them. I think this is where Hollywood got the idea that cowboys were fearless. Then again, if you watch the bull riding, you come to understand the old adage that there is a fine line between courage and stupidity. My son and I were in awe of the bull riders, dedicated sports professionals who have spent years in the saddle to get to this level of competition. We took a tour in the chutes where they keep the bulls. These beasts are big and mean and ready to rumble. The cowboys and their trainers treat all the animals with great respect and it is hard not to notice the bonds between the riders and their horses and their genuine concern for all the animals. We then toured the back gate areas, which encompass all the cowboys’ dressing rooms and on site medical services. Several doctors tended to the injured cowboys, who sustained broken ribs, cracked wrists and banged-up knees. However, the skill set of these cowboys is so high that they are able to avoid most serious injuries.

It you want to find out where Canada’s food really comes from, visit the Stampede Stock Show which provides a critical link between the agriculture business and urban consumers. At Stampede Park, there are hands-on activities for everyone in the family, including hair-raising rides and carnival games at the Great Midway and the nightly Grandstand Show featuring an unbelievable line-up of top entertainers. If you don’t want to take in a show at the Grandstand, then you have a choice of numerous live venues in downtown Calgary. Featured performers this year included George Canyon, The Road Hammers, Alan Jackson, Kenny Chesney, Carolyn Dawn Johnson, Aaron Pritchett and many others. Calgary is the capital of country music during the Rodeo season.

Make sure you visit the Calgary Tower. It actually looks like Toronto’s CN Tower but is not as tall. However, it is tall enough to give you a 360° panoramic view of the city and the Rocky Mountains in the distance.

Calgary has an amazing array of shops, boutiques and restaurants; you will not be hard-pressed to find something of interest. My son and I spent several hours looking for one of the very cool embroidered cowboy shirts that are a favourite of the cowboy fashionista crowd. Junior found a western shirt he could wear for our next adventure: horseback riding at the in Kananaskis Country.

Canoeing on the Kananaskis River

The Kananaskis River Valley is a 90-minute drive west from Calgary. The geographic beauty of the area is incredible and we were excited to reach our destination: the Rafter 6 Ranch (www.raftersix.com). It was common in the Old West for ranches to be named after the brand used. When businessman Stan Cowley bought the ranch, he kept the name. It is now home to one of the largest log structures in the world. Here you will find an authentic, relaxed cowboy atmosphere. The ranch has some modern amenities, but you won’t find telephones or television sets in its rooms or cabins. The Ranch is so authentically Wild West that it has been used as a backdrop for many movies, including The Legend of Grizzly Adams, Across the Great Divide and The Adventures of the Wilderness Family.

My son was very excited to head out for an afternoon of horseback riding. I didn’t have the heart to tell him that I was afraid of horses. When I was 12, I was thrown from a horse and had not been on one since. I was also afraid the horse might bite me. Well, next thing you know, my son was on his horse and learning the reins. I figured it was time to pony up, until they brought out my horse, Big Jess. I just kept thinking, why can’t they give me a pony? Big Jess was pretty damn big all right. There were 12 in our group and the ranch hands were really good at explaining the basics of horseback riding. We would end up spending several hours riding up and down the Rocky Mountain foothills and along river bends and up though pastures and forested areas. I was probably so nervous watching out for my son that my equinophobia (fear of horses) vanished. You just need to let the horse know who is in charge, be gentle with the beast and talk to it. You can really feel a bond developing with the creature. The horseback riding was probably one of the greatest enjoyments of my life and it was all the better riding with my son who just loved it. At one point, we came upon an open field dotted with cattle. My son was very excited as we approached the animals. He said: “Look, Dad, there’s a wild cow up there.” As we rode back to Rafter 6 along the Kananaskis River, it started to rain. Thank goodness for those cowboy hats, because the wide brim kept us very dry. We went back to the lodge and had a great meal as our hosts stoked a magnificent blaze. That night, we witnessed a dizzying lightning storm from the safety of the lodge.

The next morning, we were up early to enjoy a hearty breakfast and head out to white water raft the Kananaskis River. The temperature of this fast-flowing river is 46°, so we had to put on wetsuits to ensure we did not freeze when we hit the water. White water rafting in a mountain river stream is one point, we all bailed out to do some body-surfing down the river – protected in our wetsuits as we drifted along. The beauty of the cliffs and mountains as we coasted downstream is unimaginable. My son and I were having the time of our lives.

The hospitality at Rafter 6 Ranch is wonderful; we were sad to leave, but buoyed by our experience. A wedding party was checking in as we left. A young couple would soon marry in the small chapel at the Ranch. I was thinking what a great way to start a life together.

Cowboy hats and "wild cows"

The good news was we were leaving to visit another ranch and do some more horseback riding. We drove to the Brewster Kananaskis Guest Ranch (www.kananaskisguestranch.com) – about a 45-minute drive west of Calgary. With 83 years of ranching, the Brewster family knows how to live the lore of the west. Missy Bigley Brewster started the guest ranch in 1923. It is right next to the Bow River and has both horseback-riding expeditions and a courreur de bois canoe expedition that runs out of its camp. We went horseback riding along the Bow River for several hours. I must say I was not as nervous, except for one stretch where we were riding along a cliff on the edge of the river – which was about 300 feet below us (we were a safe 30 meters from the edge). By now, my son and I felt like pros on horseback.

The Guest Ranch offers overnight trips but we chose to stay at the lodge and enjoy the great hospitality, which included an incredible barbequed meal, bonfire and absolutely amazing country music singer who entertained us until it was time to hit the hay. The next morning, a driver picked us up and we went 20 miles upstream and canoed down the river, back to the lodge in a courreur de bois-type canoe. The Bow is a fast-moving river and paddling was not too strenuous. We saw an array of wildlife, including beavers, falcons, owls and eagles. We arrived back at the camp by mid-afternoon. From June until September every year, guests at the lodge can enjoy golf, river rafting, hiking, group voyageur canoe trips, rodeos and plenty of western hospitality.

Then it was back to Calgary and on to our flight home. What a trip! I think my son and I will both be cowboys for the rest of our lives. I’m also not afraid of horses anymore.We can’t wait to return to Alberta.

Calgary is a boomtown in more ways than one. Billed as Canada’s safest and cleanest city, Calgary enjoys the most days of sunshine per year of any major Canadian city. Westerners call it the Calgary Advantage: Chinooks in the winter account for its great ski culture. The land area is 721.73 sq km (278.54 sq mi) with over 8,000 hectares of parkland and open space within Calgary’s city limits Calgary has the highest percentage of post-secondary   educated citizens (over 60%) in Canada. The population distribution is one of the youngest in Canada, with an average age of 34. Calgary is also the most wired city in Canada, with 67.4% of residents having Internet access. Calgary’s employment rate and per capita income are both ahead of the national average, and there is no provincial sales tax, no capital tax, no machinery and equipment tax, and reasonable property tax on land and buildings. In 2005, Calgary was ranked as the best place in Canada to work by The Globe and Mail which noted that Calgary was second only to Toronto in the number of corporate head offices located there. Calgarians in the corporate world will tell you they are second to none in terms of quality of life!

For more information, contact the Calgary Exhibition & Stampede at www.calgarystampede.com or Travel Alberta at www.travelalberta.com.

Incredible Ithaca!

March 8, 2006 10:39 am
Ithaca_Falls

After a hiatus of several years from the pages of Ottawa Life Magazine as a backpacking international travel writer, I have returned with my wife Annie, this time as parents embarking on our family’s first vacation to ‘gorges’ Ithaca, New York. Located in the central Finger Lakes Region, Ithaca is a pleasant five-hour drive from the National Capital region.

To test the rumoured excellence of New York State’s road signage, we left Ottawa in the general direction of Ithaca, but did not plot our course on a map. Crossing through Johnstown and Ogdensberg, we followed Interstate 51 to Syracuse. From there, we motored to Ithaca along the scenic southwest routes 11 and 13. The signage is indeed excellent. Effortlessly, we arrived to a warm reception from the hospitable proprietors of the Spruce Row Campsite & RV Resort (www.sprucerow.com).

With over 200 tent and trailer sites, Spruce Row offers an abundance of private camping and fully equipped cabins. The resort offers an assortment of paddleboats, playgrounds and hayrides, as well as a miniature golf course and tapered swimming pool. Parents who want to engage in activities with their children have plenty to do. We awoke the next morning, with camp-heads and a hankering for a big American breakfast. We were also keen to explore our surroundings.

Bisecting lush fields and dense woodlands, the winding country roads led us to the Falls Tavern Restaurant in nearby Trumansburg, where heaping breakfasts, fresh juice and plenty of hot coffee are served. We were greeted by the warm buzz of lively conversation and three old-timers sitting alongside a table facing the door. You couldn’t help but smile as they gave our family a watchful appraisal and offered friendly nods. We had an opportunity to chat with one of these sage patrons, after eating a stick-to-your-ribs meal. A fellow by the name of Koskinen spoke with a quiet pride of the community he had “no desire to leave” and described a rich history of ingenuity, diversity and reinvestment.

A busy day at the Ithaca Farmer's Market.

Indeed, Ithaca has enjoyed an abundance of novelty, growth and sophistication. In the first halt of the 19th century, the area had its own railway line (since converted for use as a hiking trail.) Cornell University was established in 1865 as a co-educational institution. We are told that many of the students fall in love “with the Finger Lakes area and decide to settle there. The 1920s saw a booming silent cinema industry spearheaded by the acclaimed Wharton Studios, where the classic Perils of Pauline serials were made. By the end of the 1990s, Ithaca had established its reputation for superb tourism. Today, this wonderful region boasts an abundance of attractions that promote sustainability, dynamic ingenuity and a strong communal network.

Perhaps the most famous acheivement in innovation was the perfection of coffee by Ithaca’s own Gimme! Coffee (www.gimmecoffee.com), established in 2000. I had the good fortune to experience Gimme! Coffee early on in our visit to Ithaca and noticed that many locations around town were serving this fine brew.

We next visited the Sciencentre (www.sciencenter.org).The facility has an abundance of interactive exhibits that promote Science. The monumental Sagan Planet Walk is a scale-model of the solar system stretching over one kilometre to the downtown Commons. Each planet station was designed by local artist Erin Caruth and commemorates the famous astronomer and Ithaca resident Carl Sagan. The Sciencentre is one of eight institutions to visit on the educational Discovery Trail (www.discoverytrail.net).

Following our tour of the solar system, we boldly explored the historic Downtown Ithaca Commons (www.downtownithaca.com), a pedestrian marketplace with an international flair reflecting the diversity of the local population. At a Tliai restaurant, a polite proprietor entertained my clumsy attempts to order a chicken and cashew dish in the Thai tongue. (One could say I was tongue-Thaied!) turns out the server was Laotian.

Shopping alternatives include the Dewitt Mall, Centre Ithaca or Wegmans. While downtown, we spotted the Ithaca version of a police cruiser, a bright yellow VW Beetle. (It may or may not have had a happy-face painted on it!). I took this vehicle as symbolic of the community’s laid-back and progressive manner, while Annie thought it spoke of good taste.

Area restaurants use local produce whenever possible. The 80-year-old Ithaca Bakery (www.ithacabakery.com) should be included on any vacationer’s itinerary. The mouth-watering aroma of fresh baking coupled with the immeasurable deli offerings will tantalize and satisfy the various cravings of a hungry family. Glenwood Pines Restaurant (www.glenwoodpines.com) features a six-ounce Pinesburger served on French bread from the Ithaca Bakery. The Moosewood Restaurant (www.moosewoodrestaurant.com), home of the famous cookbook, is known for its vegetarian creativity. We regularly stopped at Purity Ice Cream for bountiful scoops made with fresh local milk.

A spectacular view of the falls.

The next morning, we planned an early trip to Ithaca Farmer’s Market, a cooperative of local vendors displaying a plethora of fresh fruits and vegetables, baked goods, preserves, arts, crafts and prepared meals. All products made or grown come from within a 50-km radius. We were delighted by stall after stall of tantalizing curios and edibles. Departing from the pier at the Farmer’s Market, Tiohero Tours (www.tioherotours.com) offers a one-hour narrated tour of Cayuga Lake and provides information about the local geology and history, told through the entertaining yarns of the captain and crew. The tour company also raises awareness of water-quality issues affecting the lake and uses bio-diesel fuel and biodegradable paint on their craft.

The region’s three sprawling State Parks beckon with their network of inviting hiking trails. Guided hikes are offered as well. With our Farmer’s Market picnic in hand. we planned to visit the 66-metre Taughannock  Falls that majestically cut through the soaring shale cliffs of a post-glacial gorge. We portaged our children up the accessible path to the base of the park. A popular tourism slogan, Ithaca is Gorges, lives up to its promise, while the locals love to tell you that these falls are higher than Niagara.

Robert Treman State Park is a tranquil forest sanctuary: 14 km of well-groomed hiking trails wander along the rugged gorge of Enheld Glen and Lucifer Falls. Following our vigorous hike, we took a refreshing swim in Cayuga Lake, loaded up at Wegmans, and retired to cottage life at beautifully situated Williams Ridge Cottages (315-364-8485).

Following the next lazy morning, we decided to shake a leg up at the Finger Lakes Grassroots Festival of Music and Dance (www.grassrootsfest.org). This annual event showcases traditional and contemporary roots music and is loads of fun for the whole family. Just don’t forget your tie-died shirt and dancing sandals! Just Joking! You can buy it all there! I went from squeamish bureaucrat to bluegrass-billy in no time.

Originally organized as a concert to benefit the local AIDS association, the GrassRoots Festival has grown into a nationally recognized event and is one of New York’s few self-sustaining not-for-profit arts organizations. Today, the festival continues to raise money for the fight against AIDS and other worthy causes, while providing an excellent profile of local and invited artistic talent.

My family’s weeklong vacation wound down, with Annie and I realizing that plenty of other attractions remain for our return visit. As we drove out of town, listening to Blue Rodeo’s Finger Lakes, we noticed a bumper sticker that read:

“Ithaca: 10 square miles surrounded by reality.” This summer, when you and your family need an escape from reality, consider a rejuvenating visit to Ithaca, NY. You’ll be glad you made the trek.

For a complete list of vacation ideas, contact the Ithaca/Tompkins County Convention & Visitors Bureau (904 East Shore Drive, Ithaca, NY 14850; tel.: 1-800-284-8422; www.visitithaca.com). The friendly and knowledgeable staff will provide an exciting range of options to suit any traveller’s interests and needs.

ST. PETERSBURG: The Most Beautiful Northern City of Them All

August 8, 2005 10:53 am
106238115_0099fcdf88

St. Petersburg, often referred to as the Venice of the North, is truly a remarkable city. Whether during the white nights of summer – the sun doesn’t set until after 10 pm each night from March to late August) or the special charm of the white days of winter (from November 1 to March 31), the city’s remarkable beauty and vibrancy captivates residents and visitors alike. St. Petersburg is truly one of the great architectural wonders of the world.

Founded in 1703 by Czar Peter the Great to modernize Russia’s economy by forming a closer economic, cultural and technical bond with Europe, St. Petersburg was built in only nine years and became the capital of Russia in 1712. The wide Neva River and many other smaller rivers and manmade canals organically blended into the cityscape and determined the size and direction of its main avenues.

Manicured gardens and historical architecture.

After the Russian Revolution in 1917, communists moved the capital to Moscow and changed the name of the city to Leningrad. World War II was not kind to Leningrad. The 1-day Nazi siege is one of history’s great tragedies. Hundreds of thousands of citizens perished from the cold, starvation and bombardment, but the city survived and triumphed. Reconstruction of the city’s industry, public works, museums and libraries began almost immediately after the siege broke. Today, St. Petersburg is Russia’s second largest city. The population currently stands at 4.6 million. The city is growing fast, its historic center surrounded by modern office centres, shopping malls, hotels and hyper-markets, as investment floods in from Russian and foreign banks.

We arrived by overnight train from Moscow. We were in a sleeper car for four, which was roomy and comfortable. The seats easily rolled into beds – with two bunks on top on each side. The cherry red train left Moscow at midnight and arrived promptly at 8 am the next day. The washrooms on board were clean and modern. We were given bed-wear and a snack box with yogurt, fruit, cheeses, meats and oils. The Russian train staff was very friendly and helpful with boarding and un-boarding. (In April, the Russian government announced that a new high-speed train between Moscow and St. Petersburg will be in service by 2010, reducing travel time to three hours.)

The first thing we noticed about St. Petersburg is the clean and modern Moskovsky train station in the heart of the city. (If only we had a centrally located train station in Ottawa!) The coffee bars were busy as we left the station to depart for The Grand Hotel Europe, one of the oldest and most esteemed hotels in the world. After checking in, we met over espresso in the Mezzainine Cafe to plan our day. We decided to attend several museums, but how to choose from among no less than 250 museums in St. Petersburg? The city is rightfully proud to be the home of the Hermitage and the Russian Museum, which are among the largest museums in the world. The Hermitage’s collection of art surpasses that of the Louvre! It occupies five historical buildings in the city centre, including the Winter Palace, once the czar’s official residence. One can easily spend a week taking in all the Hermitage has to offer but our very articulate and informed guide showed us the highlights during our eight-hour visit.

St. Petersburg is one of the great cultural capitals of the world. The only thing that seems to be more exciting that its past is its future, as it undergoes a modern renaissance.
The GRAND HOTEL EUROPE – St. Petersburg
A Member of The Leading Hotels of the World

The illuminated Grand Hotel Europe.

The Grand Hotel rakes up almost an entire city block. Its architecture is drawn from the 18th century imperial traditions of France and Austria. The hotel was the centre of social activity and hosted famous writers, academics actors and royalty from around the world during its heyday in the 19th century. The communists closed the hotel after the 1917 Revolution and used it as a meeting place for the local trade union and as a school for orphans. It served as a hospital during the siege of Leningrad in World War II. In the post war years, the building once again served as a hotel, run by Soviet officials but a pale shadow of its former self. This all changed when the Soviet Empire collapsed. By 1989, the old hotel had closed for reconstruction, reopening in 1991 as the first five-star hotel in the New Russia. By 1995, The Grand Hotel Europe was recognized as the best hotel in Russia and named a member of The Leading Hotels of the World. This excellence was clearly recognized in 2005 when the famous Orient-Express Hotel Corporation purchased the entire property to be in their stable of global five-star properties. The Grand Hotel has seven restaurants, including Russia’s leading fine dining establishment, L’Europe Restaurant. The hotel has a fitness centre, business centre, banquet and conference rooms, Internet hook-ups and all the modern amenities. Then there is just the architectural beauty and history of the place. Oddly enough when we were visiting so was Mikael Gorbachev. The hotel often has celebrity guests and is sensitive to their security needs while ensuring that their presence doesn’t impact negatively on other guests. A member of Gorbachevs entourage told us that of all the hotels he stays at in the world, The Grand Hotel Europe in St. Petersburg is still his favourite!

A Week in Paradise for a Family of Five at Playa del Carmen’s Gran Porto Real

January 8, 2005 3:38 pm
Gran_Porto_Real_Riviera_Maya_large

The week started out great. We put the kids on the Zoom Airlines flight direct from Ottawa to Cancun. Zoom, an Ottawa-based international charter, offers flights and all-inclusive packages to southern destinations. (This year, the Mexican destination is Puerto Vallarta.)

Arriving in Cancun, we are taken on charter buses south for one hour to Playa del Carmen. The main road into town – Avenida Juarez – leads you right to the ferry dock and the pedestrian-only 5th Avenue. Playa del Carmen is truly a paradise. This once sleepy village on the Mayan Riviera is now bustling with Canadian and European tourists who have discovered its alabaster-white beaches, soft blue turquoise surf, coral reefs and slow lifestyle, as well as the very gentle and friendly Mayan people. (The pleasant but much more expensive island of Cozumel is just across the strait.) Playa del Carmen’s dock is the pier for the ‘people ferry to Cozumel, so it’s only a short trip over to snorkel or dive on Cozumel’s incredible coral reefs.

The resort has an incredible kids’ club. Children can join anytime during the day. The kids’ activity reps are always doing arts and crafts or organizing events for children on the beach. The staff is exceptional; the kids just couldn’t get enough of the daily activities. Besides the extraordinary accommodation and services, we found that for the sake of convenience, staying close to 5th Avenue near the Grand Porto Real at 5th & 14th was our best option. We were close to the supermarket, stores, bus station, beach and fast-food outlets serving reasonably priced Mexican fare. The strong European influence in Playa del Carmen has created a unique, eclectic world ambiance. Combine that with a relaxed Mexican-Caribbean feeling and a sprinkling of American free spirits and you’ve got a tropical destination second to none.

Playa del Carmen beaches.

It does not take long to become acquainted with Playa del Carmen. In one day you can get to know the vacation zone quite well.

Most of Playa’s activities involve the water. The beaches are fabulous for swimming, snorkelling or diving. There are numerous dive shops around, and snorkelling, dive and fishing boats ready to take you out.

We enjoyed the marvellous beaches by day and took in the lively nightlife along 5th Avenue in the evening. Clothing stores sell the latest threads from Europe. Cuban cigar and rum stores abound. Most impressive was the incredible selection of silver jewellery made by the local population. There are bargains to be had and enough variety in both selection and pricing. Playa del Carmen has a mellow yet very vibrant atmosphere. At night, the clubs along 5th Avenue come alive.

The farther away from 5th Avenue you go, the cheaper things get. You also will find the best Mexican restaurants not far from 5th on 30th, which puts you out of the tourist zone. In fact, in-between 5th and 30th are all kinds of interesting stores that sell everything; from live chickens to computers. You’ll find banks, money exchanges and pharmacies there. Playa is not that big and everything the vacationer might need is within the tourist zone. Numerous Internet cafes serve great coffees- espresso, cappuccinos and a variety of herbal teas.

Golf can be played on an 18-hole course designed by Robert Von Hagge. An American tourist I met told me it’s one of the best courses he’s ever played. Beachcombers can hike north and make a day of it, relaxing in beachside restaurants along the way. Wear a hat and much sunscreen. Don’t miss the Chaak Tun Cave. It’s on Avenida Juarez several miles down the highway on the right past Alux Cave. You can swim in there.

On day 5 of our trip, we ventured to Xel-Ha (which means ‘where the water is born’). Known as the magical creation of the Mavan gods: Xel-Ha is 60 miles south of Cancun, on the Riviera Maya. It was a safe harbour and port-of-call for the ancient Mayan merchant fleet. Today, Xel-Ha is a remarkable recreational site, where visitors can explore such natural wonders as a labyrinth of waterways and paths through the tropical jungle, lagoons or transparent turquoise, private inlets and coves, cenotes (fresh water sinkholes or natural wells), a cool river which flows through a mangrove forest, multicoloured fish, and a verdant lush jungle.

The Gran Porto Real.

To make these sites more accessible, the park has installed wagon carts pulled by a four-wheeler. This makes the voyage to the river’s entrance a lot faster. Usually referred to as the “train,” these wagons parallel the pedestrian paths, starting near the entrance and ending where the river begins. The train also carries the belongings of those who swim or snorkel down the river safely back to another checkpoint at the park’s center. The park has introduced an interactive swimming program with dolphins that live in the fabulous natural aquarium.

Unpaved paths lead the explorer to hidden inlets, thatched-roof palapas, an ancient wall built by the Mayas, two cenotes that widen into a spectacular waterway with a view of rock buttresses, lush foliage and the vibrant blue Caribbean sky. We decided to journey downriver by swimming and floating in a large inner tube. It was a fantastic two-hour trip- we stopped to jump off cliffs and take in the scenery. As you go downriver, the stream opens up into an equally crystal-clear, turquoise lagoon where snorkelling is a must. The Xel-Ha journey is a spectacular vacation experience. The “Discover Tulum-Explore Xel-Ha” tour makes for an ideal day in paradise, where nature, culture and history blend into a fabulous learning and pleasure experience.

To find out more, visit www.gotraveldirect.com.

Awakening the Giant: The Return of Poland

December 1, 2002 8:11 pm
mgfp

In this issue of Ottawa Life, we begin the first of a two-part series on Poland. That is to say the new Poland – a country with a most intricate history of war and ideological conflict, but also one of sophisticated art and culture. Polish influence extends to Canada and particularly to Eastern Ontario. Poland is becoming a player, both politically and economically, more than most people realize.

In Part I, we explore Poland’s links to Canada and take the reader on a tour of its beautiful sites. Part II will focus on Poland’s rapid economic growth, its ambition to join the European Union in 2004, and its strategic relevance as a NATO partner, as well as the growing importance of Canadian-Polish relations.

The Republic of Poland is about to be impressed on the consciousness of the West. During the Cold War and until the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, Poland was separated from the West by the Iron Curtain and was a satellite state of the Soviet Empire.

This vital country was hidden from western eyes and ears for decades as a result of its being under Communist rule and Soviet control. Today, Poland is about to make an enormous step into the global arena as it prepares to be admitted to the European Union in 2004 and takes its place as a major player alongside the likes of Great Britain, France and Germany. After all, with a population of almost 39 million people, making it one of Europe’s largest markets, Poland stands to hold a huge percentage of the balance of political power in the EU.

Poland is situated in the very heart of Europe and has played a central role in the cultural development of European civilization in science, architecture, agriculture, music, film and industry. Nicolaus Copernicus and Frederic Chopin were Poles. However, this geographical location that has produced its unique charm has also caused Poland to be a battleground. Poland’s history is marked by turbulent wars and political upheaval, resulting in many waves of immigration as the Polish people searched for peace, prosperity and stability.

Poland Comes to Canada…

By the mid 1800s, during Czarist Russia’s occupation of Poland, many Polish immigrants looked beyond the European continent for places to settle. Canada was a favourite destination of thousands of Polish emigrants. Some Poles settled in the town of Wilno, Ontario (near Pembroke). Even now, Wilno retains much of its rich Polish culture, right smack dab in the heart of the Madawaska Highlands.

Pawel Dobrowlski, Polish Ambassador to Canada, says that Polish immigration is “really the story of Canada, as much as it is the story of Poland:’ What he means is that Canada is a nation built by immigrants. At the turn of the 20th century, Canada took in its largest wave of Polish immigrants. Mainly farmers, this group largely settled in Central and Western Canada and joined in the ranks of the great pioneers who literally built our country from the ground up.

During World War II, Poland once again found itself caught in the middle of the crossfire—this time from Hitler in the West and Stalin in the East. Stalin’s side won and Poland became a Communist state. This resulted in the last great wave of Polish immigrants to Canada. Today, there are about 750,000 Canadians of Polish descent.

Winds of Change —The Poland of Today

Poland has regained its independence and is once again practicing its longstanding democratic and parliamentary traditions. Since the fall of Communism, Poland has made enormous strides in political and economic development. This has as much to do with the sheer size of the country (one of Europe’s biggest) as with its well-established political traditions. In less formal terms, Ralph Lysyshyn, the newly appointed Canadian Ambassador to Poland, really nails it when he says that “Poland is not a little guy and as you take it in the context of European enlargement, whether with NATO or the EU and the other countries joining in, more than 50% of these new members are Poles. You have to recognize the potential of this country.”

Poland is back on track after years of Soviet occupation and is now one of the fastest-growing economies in Europe. Many Poles around the world are now returning to their ancestral homeland. Among this population wave includes international executives eager to do business, as well as tourists looking for something new. The Polish Tourism Organization estimates that tourism will bring in about $4 billion to the nation’s economy in 2003.

Warsaw, Poland’s capital and largest city, is a model of growth and development for other cities in Central and Eastern Europe to follow. Warsaw was blown to pieces in World War II: 84% of the city was destroyed. Incredibly, after the war, it only took 15 years for Warsaw to be rebuilt. The scenic Old Town and Market Square, once turned to rubble, rose from the ashes and once again are the focal point of the city.

Since 1990, Warsaw has again seen a construction boom. Elegant skyscrapers serve as a modern backdrop to the wonderfully restored historical buildings that define the city’s character.

In Poland’s north lies Gdansk, arguably one of Europe’s most beautiful yet little-known cities. Located on the coast of the Baltic Sea, Gdansk has always been a strategically-placed port city and a center of trade in Northern Europe. In fact, during the 16th and 17th centuries, it was one of the leading commercial cities of Europe. In 1919, under the terms of the Treaty of Versailles, the city was established as the administrative center of the free city of Danzig, a territory 1,953 square kilometres (or 754 square miles) in area, under the control of the League of Nations. With sovereignty, Gdansk (or Danzig as the Germans called it) developed its own unique liberated character. But Gdansk’s freedom was short-lived. In 1939, the German government incorporated Gdansk into the Third Reich. After the war, Gdansk was awarded to Poland and by 1970, had become the center for protest against the country’s Communist government. Poland’s Solidarity labour movement came to life in Gdansk.

Through the years of the Cold War, Gdansk always managed to retain its character as a “free city.” With its rich history, narrow, winding streets and gabled houses with open-air balconies of carved stone, Gdansk is regaining its reputation as one of Europe’s most magnificent destinations.

The city of Cracow lies near the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains. Cracow was built by many generations of artists living in the Medieval, Renaissance, Baroque and Art Nouveau times. Fortunately, Cracow was spared from the chaos and destruction of the Second World War. Dominated by the Renaissance Royal Castle and Main Market Square (often referred to as “the largest European society salon”), Cracow is perhaps the most beautiful gothic city in the whole of Europe. Even today, Cracow still retains an artistic flair and is regarded as the cultural capital of Poland.

Near Cracow are the Wieliczka Salt Mines, which made UNESCO’s First World Cultural and Natural Heritage list. The mine is more than 800 years old, with 300 kilometers of tunnels. What is truly unique about the mine is that it shelters several chapels, including the Chapel of the Blessed Kinga. Everything in this huge chapel is made of salt: the ceiling, the floor, the side walls, the chandeliers and the three altars.

As Poland grows in international stature, these places will become better known. Poland is now being called “an awakening giant.” When it joins the EU next year, it will be one of the big club’s largest countries and fastest-growing economies.

By: Peter Gill

Barbados: The Diamond Island of the Caribbean

January 8, 2002 12:18 am
blue horizon hotel barbados exterior

Steeped in British history, Barbados is the most modern and sophisticated of all the Caribbean Islands. Barbados has a highly educated population and one of the highest standards of living in the British West Indies. Living as they do in a Parliamentary democracy, Bajans are spiritual people with over 35 religions for the 262,000 population. The Anglican Church is most predominant, but there are Muslims, Catholics, Jews and other faiths on the island. The Jewish Synagogue in Bridgetown dates back to the 17th Century. Barbados has churches peppered throughout the island. Next to these small churches, one can usually find a local rum shack. It is a source of amusement on the island that both the church and the rum shacks serve spirituality – just different types – depending on where you are sitting! Barbados has a highly sophisticated telecommunications base and a tourism sector that is second to none.

When travelling from Canada, there are direct flights from Toronto to Bridgetown via Air Canada. A number of charter options are also available. If you are looking for accommodation for business or pleasure, we recommend Gems of Barbados (www.gemsofbarbados.com). Gems have four hotel properties on the island: The Savannah, Blue Horizon, Silver Rock and Time Out at the Gap. The properties are superb and the prices very reasonable. All sites have very hospitable, friendly and knowledgeable staff.

The Savannah

One of Barbados’ most sophisticated hotels, the Savannah combines modern conveniences with the charm of a bygone era. The Savannah’s antique mahogany furniture and four-poster beds create an elegant ambiance, while data port and satellite television in every room provide guests with contemporary luxuries. The new wing offers 80 guestrooms, including nine luxury duplex and ground level suites with direct beachfront access. Features here include two freshwater pools with a cascading waterfall, a spacious fitness centre and a day spa.

The Savannah's dining area.

Situated on a hill topped by the historic main house, the Savannah’s new wing slopes gently toward the ocean and offers lovely sea or garden views. Nature enthusiasts can enjoy on-site turtle nesting, as well as a beautiful waterfall and meandering freshwater pools.

Located on the island’s south coast near the capital of Bridgetown and Barbados’ nightlife in the St. Lawrence Gap, the Savannah is an ideal spot for vacationers. Guests can enjoy fine international cuisine enhanced with Caribbean flair at the Boucan Wine Bar and Restaurant. Live entertainment is featured during the popular Sunday brunch.

The hotel’s refined atmosphere, modern amenities and proximity to the airport make it a perfect match for business travellers. High-speed Internet connections are available in all rooms, and suites are equipped with printers and fax machines. Sophisticated conference and business centre facilities are elegantly decorated and feature the latest technical equipment to assist business travellers in executing a successful event. The new 2200-square-foot conference facility can be arranged to suit individual needs, with seating available for up to 200 for large and small conventions and banquets. The Savannah also has a full-time events coordinator who can help you with any special occasion, whether an important meeting or your wedding day.

Blue Horizon

Blue Horizon will delight guests with its colourful ambiance and tropical charm. Surrounded by a lively decor and warm, friendly staff, guests at Blue Horizon are given the royal treatment with special island flair.

Located opposite one of the south coast’s most renowned beaches, Blue Horizon is a stone’s throw away from the island’s vibrant nightlife and conveniently close to the airport and Bridgetown, the capital city of Barbados.

A range of restaurants, shops and activities are located within a short walking distance from the hotel. For those who would rather not leave the hotel grounds, a small shop is located on the premises, offering many of the essentials for an island vacation.

Delicious local specialties are available at the hotel’s Courtyard Restaurant, where an innovative combination of Creole and local cuisine is served on a spacious outdoor patio by the pool. The Courtyard is perfect for casual daytime lunches while basking in the tropical sun, or romantic evening soirees under the stars. Theme nights are also offered, highlighting a variety of international cuisines. The largest of the Gems of Barbados properties, Blue Horizon offers two freshwater pools and conference facilities that can accommodate up to 40 persons theatre-style. The business centre also offers Internet and fax services. Eighty rooms offer full kitchen facilities.

Silver Rock

Silver Rock’s beauty and secluded location offer a perfect blend of solitude and adventure. At this renowned windsurfing haven, the lively surf provides the ideal environment for active vacationers, while Silver Rock’s breathtaking ocean vistas create the perfect setting for romance.

The beautiful beachfront property features 70 rooms, including a honeymoon suite with two private ocean-view balconies. Located on a sparkling white sand beach, Silver Rock also boasts a freshwater pool and poolside bar. Guests can enjoy the tropical sun and refreshing ocean breezes while dining on Jibboom’s open patio, or relax while enjoying the evening’s entertainment under the stars.

Silver Rock’s beach is internationally known for its excellent windsurfing conditions and the hotel is an established haven for the sport. In addition to windsurfing, Silver Rock offers a variety of outdoor and beach activities, including kite surfing, boogie boarding, hiking, beach volleyball and kayaking. Silver Rock’s special program for children allows parents to spend quality time alone, with the knowledge that their little ones are safe and properly supervised. Each day, a new theme or activity is offered. The day’s events are designed to engage children in wholesome activities that are also fun-filled and educational. Dining is a mix of Caribbean and international cuisines, and seafood nachos are a favorite specialty.

Time Out at the Gap

Time Out at the Gap is Barbados newest hot spot for the young at heart. Located in the centre of the exciting St. Lawrence Gap area, Time Out offers the ideal combination of sun, surf and sizzling nightlife.

Time Out at the Gap.

Time Out at the Gap’s 76 air-conditioned rooms offer a range of accommodation options to meet a variety of needs. With the beach directly across the road, guests can choose between luxurious white sand and the hotel’s freshwater pool, situated in a tropical garden. Time Out encourages its guests to explore Barbados, offering access to tours and activities through its “Out and About” shop.

At Time Out’s Whistling Frog Restaurant and Sports Pub, pub-style dining is combined with entertainment and games to enliven the dining experience. We recommend you try the island specialty here, pepper pot soup. Four multi-screen televisions and a large-screen TV animate the bar. Special hotel events like the Friday Night Street Pub feature music for dancing, with tasty Bajan fishcakes and other specialties cooked on the spot. It is the perfect opportunity to mingle with other guests and meet friendly locals. Guests are also welcome to explore a wide variety of nearby restaurants, bars, nightclubs and shops.

We Recommend

OISTIN’S FRIDAY NIGHT DANCE – Definitely a hi-lite of our trip to Barbados, the Friday night fish-fry, rum-up and dance party begins at around 8pm. Bajans from the fishing village of Oistins gather in the dock area for a fried fish and rum supper. As the evening progresses, the crowds get larger and an open street party/dance takes shape. It carries on often until just before sunrise. It’s an amazing cultural fete, held weekly, and tourists are welcome to join the party.

ISLAND SAFARI TOURS – Take a Land Rover jeep, fill it with tourists and drive all over the island for the day. The Bajan drivers are excellent tour guides and this eight- hour jaunt of Barbados takes you through the jungle terrain, into the sugar cane plantations, across the coastal roads and up to the world-famous surf beach at Bathsheba. After Stopping for a 40-minute break on the cliffs off the east coast, the safari heads into Holetown for a Bajan lunch. It makes for a long day- but you will really have a sense of the geography of the island after the tour with Island Safari. The drivers explain the local customs, food and traditions throughout the day. If you have a bad back – don’t go – some of the terrain is rough – but it’s an adventure not to miss. To find out more, visit islandsafaribdos@caribsurf.com

THE WATERFRONT CAFE in Bridgetown is directly across from the Parliament Buildings, set alongside a picturesque pier in the heart of the city. The cafe features loud music, spicy food, and big bold flavours that conjure up the Caribbean.

NANIKI RESTAURANT – Naniki provides the ideal alternative to the everyday bustle and grind… serving authentic Caribbean dishes, using healthy, organically-grown foods when available. Naniki is a little off the beaten track (a 20 mile drive from Bridgetown) to the freshness of the country and one of the best views anywhere in the Caribbean. The view from the patio of the restaurant is simply breathtaking. The menu is superb. The flying fish is served grilled with Creole sauce. Other menu items include Corn Meal, Breadfruit or Green Banana Cou-Cou, Bread Pudding- Pickled Lambie (Conch), Pepper Pot Soup – Ackee & Saltfish. We tried the sea egg and callaloo, a local delicacy. The service was friendly and the ginger beer went well with the relaxed atmosphere. For more info, email: lushlife@sunbeach.net.

THE SAND DOLLAR RESTAURANT is located at the Bagshot House Hotel on a mile of pink coral sand on the St. Lawrence Coast. Bagshot House combines an informal, comfortable atmosphere with personal service. Bagshot boasts superb swimming in the island’s only natural lagoon, ideal for children and adults of all ages. Breakfast, lunch and tine dining on the ocean features international favourites, seafood and Bajan delicacies. We tried the conch – it was served baked with a light smattering of vegetables. Rum raisin ice cream and cappuccino rounded off the meal. The service was efficient and very friendly. The owner of the Sand Dollar and Bagshot House Hotel is Aubrey Gomes, a transplanted Canadian who has a very loyal clientele. There are lots of repeat visitors, vear after year. Recreation and nightlife abound within walking distance. We highly recommend the Sand Dollar Restaurant, for more info visit www.funbarbados.com

Shopping in Bridgetown at Cave Shepherd – duty free goods, products from around the world. You’ll want to spend at least a day in Bridgetown, touring and shopping. Be sure to spend at least a couple of hours in the Cave Shepherd store- a sort of Baton’s of Barbados.

Barbados Facts

BRIDGETOWN
Bridgetown is the capital and principal commericla centre. Founded in 1628, it has a population od 80,000 and is Barbados’ largest and liveliest city. In Bridgetown, one can find Lord Nelson’s Bronze Statue- at Trafalgar Square. Erected in 1813, 27 years before the British erected a similar statue in London. Bridgetown is also the location of the third oldest Parliament in the Commonwealth.

THE JEWISH SYNAGOGUE
Located about 200 yards from Broad Street. It is believed to have been in existence since the 17th century.

The Barbados Museum.

BARBADOS MUSEUM
The repository of the island’s history, the Barbados Museum houses an excellent collection of furniture, glassware, birds, fish, books, and other records of the island. The Museum is located at the Garrison in the old military detention barracks, erected in 1853. It is maintained by the Barbados Museum and Historical Society.

QUEEN’S PARK
This was the residence of the General commanding British Troops in the West Indies. Prior to the succession of Queen Victoria, it was known as “King’s House”. Upon the withdrawal of the British regiment from this island during the early 1900s, it was taken over by the Vestry of St. Michael and turned into a park. Opened on the 10th of June 1909, it now falls under the National Conservation Commission. In the grounds of Queen’s Park is one of the largest trees, if not the largest tree in Barbados. This is a baobab, 61 years old. The baobab is a native tree of Africa; no one ever knows how it got to Barbados.

HOLETOWN
Originally called James Town, this is the site of the first landing made in 1625 by the crew of the ship Olive Blossom. A monument commemorates the landing.

FOLKSTONE PARK
An underwater park where marine life can be viewed from glass-bottom-boats. At the park, there is also a small marine museum of photographs, artefacts and specimens of marine life.

ST. JOHN’S CHURCH
The church stands on the edge of a cliff, which affords a magnificient view of the island’s East Coast. The present building is 150 years old, although there has been a church on this site since the 17th century. The tomb of Ferdinando Paellologus, a descendant of the last Greek Emperor, is situated in the graveyard.

THE LION (GUN HILL)
On the South Coast was once a major seaport. It was here that Royalist Barbadians grudgingly pledged their allegiance to Oliver Cromwell and his government in 1652. It is the principal fishing port and the site of a major fish market

Sam Lord's Castle.

SAM LORD’S CASTLE
25 km from Bridgetown, Sam Hall Lord, one of the island’s most colourful characters, built the Castle. It is reputed that Sam Lord placed lanterns in coconut trees to lure passing ships onto nearby reefs. The ships were then looted and the booty stored in tunnels under the Castle. Now a luxury hotel, it features beautiful grounds and carefully restored furniture and paintings.

HARRISON’S CAVE
It is believed that Harrison’s Cave is the only cave in; the world where running water is found along with: colour crystal-like formations. The cave has large chambers, stalagmites, stalactites, lakes, streams and waterfalls.

SPEIGHTSTOWN
The second largest town on the island. Formerly known as “Little Bristol” because of the heavy sugar traffic with that English town. It was eventually renamed after William Speight, a member of Governor Hawley’s Parliament.

FESTIVALS
The Crop Over Festival
A folk festival, which originated on the sugar plantations, “Crop Over” was then, as it is now, a means of celebrating the end of a hard-working sugar cane season. The three-week festival runs from mid-July to early August. It is a lively showcase of all facets of Barbadian culture, a fluid blend of African revival and western modernity. Activities include a King and Queen of the Crop competition, street malls, stilt walking, art and culinary exhibitions, and the “Pic-o’-de-crop” Calypso Monarch competition.

Congaline Festival
Congaline Festival was first staged in 1994 and is recognized locally as the “World’s Greatest Street Party”. It is held on the South Coast, attracting hundreds of locals and visitors alike. It begins during the last week of April and culminates on May Day. This festival has recently been modified as a music festival of African Diaspora.

THE BARBADOS LANDSHIP
Barbados is the only country, which boasts a “landship” movement- a navy that never goes to sea. Established over 100 years ago, through the initiative of Moses Wood, a retired seaman, the fleet is commanded by an Admiral and has incorporated all the ratings of the British Navy. The Club House is the Ship that always carries the prefix BLS (Barbados Landship) before its name. The ship’s crew wears uniforms similar to those worn in a professional navy, and are trained and disciplined in the manner of the military. The language of “Jack Tars” is used. Their manoeuvres are gala affairs, packed with excitement, rhythm and movement.

ART EXHIBITIONS
The Queen’s Park Gallery and the Grande Salle at the Central Bank are two of the exhibiting professional galleries. There are now a number of privately-owned galleries as well.

DINNER THEATRE ENTERTAINMENT
“1627 and All That…” is held at Tyrol Cot every Thursday evening. There is folk dancing and music. It can be described as the history of the island of the island as told by the dancers.

“The Plantation Tropical Spectacular II” – Another evening of folklore, music, song and dance, depicting aspects of Caribbean life.

The Troutbeck Experience

November 8, 1999 9:45 pm
Troutbeck-Country-Inn-and-Conference-Center-in-Amenia-New-York-12501

Text and images by: Katharine Fletcher

Deep in New York State’s Hudson Valley, there’s a home away from home, beckoning.

Snuggled in your wing chair across from a crackling fire, your eye is greeted by rows of books clustered along wooden shelves. Magazines sprawl across a coffee table, before a comfy sofa. The door of the game room is ajar, and the murmur of voices emanates from the ongoing poker game. You hunker down, cozy in your cocoon.

Idly glancing at your watch, you realize you have time for a swim or stroll and a before-dinner drink at the open bar.

You opt for a stroll. Out you go, into the hushed landscape of Troutbeck’s muted colours and sounds.

Leaving the English-style manor house behind you, you follow the bend in the private road. Just before venturing along the nearby “beck” — the brook once filled with trout which gave the inn its name — you spy a historic sign.

It tells you that Troutbeck was the former home of Myron B. Benton, “poet-naturalist, friend of John Burroughs, Emerson and Thoreau.” Images of Walden Pond leap to mind. The sign fails to inform you that this site welcomed the founders of the black movement, including Booker T. Washington, who helped form the National Association for the Advancement of Coloured People (NAACP).

Perhaps now, as you walk, you’ll wonder if Emerson and Thoreau lingered on a stroll just like yours, today, over two centuries later. The sharp, cool scent of autumn pierces such reveries, and draws you onward.

Falling leaves swirl softly about. Suddenly invigorated, you start kicking at the piles of leaves, reliving that time-tested, joyous childhood pastime. Just possibly you’ll break into a laughter-filled, heady run and, as your feet fly, you’ll breathe in the cool, still air.

The sheer beauty of these eastern woodlands catches you. Here and there, tucked away in the woods, you’ll discover private homes straight from the pages of Architectural   Digest. For like many international inns and retreats, Troutbeck’s ample acreage is a refuge for a private community. The artful architecture and gracious settings provide ample inspiration for you… for if you are like us, you’re always on the lookout for great gardening or deck ideas for your own home.

Returning to your room, you’ll marvel again at its unlocked door. There are no locks here and this lends an unexpected charm to Troutbeck, for once you’ve crossed the threshold into its serene world, you have entered a gentler, easier time.

But now the pool beckons… grabbing your swimsuit, you return outside, walking the short path to the outbuilding. Once you’re there, you’ll recognize that it’s also the greenhouse! Plants and flowers provide welcome green borders to the turquoise water. How many laps are you up to? No one will be watching, no one will be counting, so take your time. Try floating in this interior, green world and let your mind focus on the superb meal awaiting you.

Typical meals at Troutbeck include fresh, seasonal and local produce. Who knows what Chef Robert A. Timan will be planning for tonight?

Consider these possibilities… (and do some more laps of the pool, first). A typical dinner menu might include wild mushroom bread pudding; mesclun with spicy walnuts, Anjou pears and champagne vinaigrette; followed by an entrée of ginger marinated duck breasts with a rhubarb chutney.

Dessert? How can you demure? After all, this is a holiday, so surely you’ll test the bittersweet chocolate cake, triple lemon tart, or warm polenta soufflé cake with a molten centre… We dare you to resist.

Whether you opt for dessert or not, the ambiance of the dining room is enchant ing. Candlelight flickers on its exposed, stone walls while leaded glass windows reveal the last glimpses of garden for the evening. Eventually, the old glass shimmers, reflecting candlelight, glass and silverware. Troutbeck is charming, easy, relaxed. Go. You’ll love its gentle ways.

That’s Troutbeck for you, just a bend down the road from Amenia, New York, hidden in the Hudson River Valley’s gentle hills and dales.

What else is there?

The Hudson Valley is packed with intriguing finds. Fine gourmet cooking classes from world-class chefs, antique shops, galleries, historic homes… browse the Internet at: www.vintagehudsonvalley.com, or write to: Vintage Hudson Valley, c/o Maren Rudolph, P.O. Box 288, Irvington, NY 10533; tel: (914) 591-4503; fax: (914) 591-4510; e-mail: info@vintagehudsonvalley.com.

Spooky Hudson Valley Sidebar

“If I could but reach that bridge,” thought Ichabod. “I am safe.” (from ‘The Legend of Sleepy Hollow’ by Washington Irving)

“But the headless horseman relentlessly pursued him on his jet-black steed. Urging his mount to gallop faster, terrified Ichabod sped through the darkness trying to outrun the horrifying spectre.”

Such is the imaginary stuff of legends and horror… or is it?

Especially come Hallowe’en, it is easy to let our minds wander fancifully, to imagine that sprites and goblins people winter’s approaching dark nights…

American writer Washington trying loved the Hudson Valley so much that he penned the spooky ‘Legend of Sleepy Hollow’ near his home, north of Tarrytown, New York. Here, too, he wrote his other beloved masterpiece, ‘Rip Van Winkle.’ His home, Sunnyside, remains as a heritage treasure enjoyed by thousands of visitors yearly.

When in the Hudson Valley, visit Sunnyside, the 19th-century home of Washington Irving, near Tarrytown. For more information, call (914) 631-8200.

If you go

Troutbeck is a 71/2-hour drive from Ottawa…and a mere two-hour drive from Manhattan if you want to coordinate a business-and-pleasure trip to the Big Apple.

For information on the inn, and detailed instructions about the drive, check out the Troutbeck website at www.troutbeck.com or e-mail general manager Garret Corcoran at garret@troutbeck.com.

ADDRESS: Troutbeck, Leedsville Road, Amenia, NY 12501. Telephone (914) 373-9681 or tollfree at 1-800-978-7688,Fax is(914)373-7080.

RATES: $650 to $1.050 US for a weekend, NOTE: a 10% reduction is offered on the US dollar for Canadians. Take note that the price is all-inclusive and includes six meals, an open bar (complete with superb single malt scotch), use of the swimming pool, fitness centre, volleyball, basketball and tennis courts, friendly poker table, video library and 12,000 books.

Victoria’s Butchart Gardens

September 8, 1999 9:42 pm
butchart-gardens

By Katharine Fletcher; Images Eric Fletcher

Fragrance, colour, and delight await you at this old quarry site.

It all started in 1904 with the gift of some sweet peas and a single rose.

Little did Jennie Butchart realize that when she planted them beside her brand-new home just north of Victoria, B.C., that it was the start to today’s internationally renowned Butchart Gardens.

Over a million visitors annually marvel at her flowery legacy that rambles over the family’s 130-acre estate. The remarkable variety of landscaping styles includes a formal Italian garden, a rose garden, Japanese garden and our personal favorite, the sunken garden.

Perhaps we are attracted to it most because of the creative transformation that sunken gardens represent, for they are located in what was once Robert Pim Butchart’s limestone quarry. Or perhaps the very name “sunken garden” invokes a sense of mystery and surprise…

Whatever the reason, the sunken garden juxtaposes many delightful nooks and crannies with breathtaking vistas that, in the tradition of all superb landscape designs, seem to be effortless if not “natural.”

Ross Fountain Butchart Gardens.

But anyone who knows their origin marvels at them. Anthony Everett has worked at the garden for several years in various capacities. He revealed some of the sunken gardens’ secrets to us as he escorted us along their winding pathways. Jennie Butchart worked especially hard at this section of garden. Everett assured our never-ending admiration for her when he told us she was “lowered by ropes over the edge of the quarry, in a bosun’s chair” so that she could tuck soil and then ivy plants into the walls of the old pit.

Unfortunately, no photographs exist of Jennie suspended in her chair. We can only imagine a long-skirted, Edwardian figure industriously creating what has now grown into a green, living cascade of ivy drapery. What vision she had! It included a realization that Victorian residents and visitors alike would enjoy coming out to Benvenuto (as she and her husband called the estate) for an afternoon stroll and tea. By 1915, she served tea to 18,000 people. Nonetheless, the family did not start charging admission to what became known as Butchart Gardens until 1941, when adults paid a quarter and children 10 cents!

Prices have risen and now visitors can purchase their afternoon tea, lunch or dinner in what was once the Butchart’s residence. In fact, we just enjoyed a delectable luncheon in mid-June, served by attentive staff in the airy conservatory room. Overlooking the formal Italianate gardens built upon the original estate’s tennis courts, this room creates a light-green sanctuary. We can hardly imagine a more delightful setting for lunch.

Personally, we have a very special love for Butchart Gardens. We first visited the place on our honeymoon 20 years ago. Whenever we’re in Victoria, we return here and rediscover tranquillity, gleaning many tips about gardening and flower species as we wander the wending paved footpath.

Because the gardens are open 365 days a year, we’ve discovered many types of plants that enjoy different conditions and which flower at different times of the year. This June, a lupin-like spire of blossoms in pale yellow and orange riveted our attention. By glancing at the handy pamphlet entitled Flower Guide to the Butchart Gardens, we discovered that we’d found the fox lily, a species hitherto unknown to us.

Butchart Gardens Sunken Garden.

As avid gardeners, we find ourselves inspired not just by the wide variety of plants here, but also by their artistic composition. Sky-blue and midnight-blue delphiniums rise majestically behind powder-puff pink peonies. Fragrances headily spice the air… and even the trellises that support bowers of climbing roses and wisteria are pretty, for they are molded and carved out of cement to resemble branches. Indeed, since the quarry once supplied limestone for the Butchart’s Portland Cement enterprise, these trellises fittingly echo the family history.

If the gardens themselves are not enough to compel you to linger, the entertainment will invite you to do so. From June 15 to September 15, there is music to enjoy; from July 3 to September 4, there are fireworks to marvel at. Families are welcome and you can take a blanket and picnic basket, and spread out on the lawn to enjoy the show.

There’s always something to tempt us to return to Butchart Gardens. Last December, we found ourselves wandering around the grounds, which were fantastically illuminated by thousands of Christmas lights. We marvelled once more at our beloved Sunken Gardens whose quarrv walls were covered in tiny royal blue lights set to mimic waterfalls. All the while, as we explored, the sounds of carolers singing such standards as Silent Night wafted through the air.

We’ll never tire of these gardens. Whether or not you have a green thumb, whether you possess a perennial bed or a patio pot, we’re sure you’ll find this wonderful spot an oasis of beauty, fragrance and colour.

IF YOU GO

A scenic 30-minute drive from Victoria. Open year-round, seasonal rates and times. Write for information to: The Butchart Gardens, Box 4010, Victoria, BC V8X 3X4: tel: (250) 652-4422; fax: (250) 652-3883; e-mail: info@butchartgardens.bc.ca; Internet: http://butchartgardens.bc.ca/butchart/.

As noted, we have repeatedly visited the gardens and have enjoyed afternoon tea, lunch and dinner on various occasions. All are superb. We recommend that you reserve. Different entertainment is also offered year-round and “A Victorian Christmas” spent in the capital of British Columbia and at the Butchart Gardens is a “must-see” attraction.

Spruceholme Inn: A Victorian Holiday Retreat

January 8, 1999 9:31 pm
1

By Katharine Fletcher; Images Eric Fletcher

Whether you want a quiet getaway during the holiday season or an elegant Victorian New Year’s, consider spending a night or two at historic Spruceholme Inn.

Located in the village of Fort Coulonge in West Quebec, it’s less than a two-hour drive from Ottawa. Worries and stresses of the city and work slip away while you drive west on Highway 148. You’ll enjoy arresting views of the Ottawa River as well as glimpses of undulating farmland, prosperous homes and swathes of dark woods.

George Bryson, Sr. was one of the Ottawa Valley’s most successful lumber barons. After building his own estate, he built not one but three stone homes in Fort Coulonge for each of his children. Only one, Spruceholme Inn, is a commercial estabshment. The other two remain as private homes.

Today, Spruceholme offers Victorian elegance in the heart of West Quebec. Not only are the bedrooms tastefully appointed in a manner befitting the Bryson mansion, but there is a fine dining room, too. A piano bar just off the dining room completes the ambiance of ease and rest reminiscent of a traditional English pub. Here you can nurse a pre- or post-dinner drink and chat with your hosts, proprietors Glenn and Marlene Scullion.

They saw the ‘for sale’ sign on the property’s wrought iron fence early in 1996. It got their creative juices flowing and they started dreaming their dreams for the old home. After extensive renovations, the Inn was opened for business in 1997.

One of Spruceholme’s particular delights is that the Scullions convinced the former owners – direct descendants of Bryson – to leave many of the original antiques. Some give a particularly intimate feel to Spruceholme.

This intimacy is notable in the dining room, where photographs of the Brysons adorn the walls, peering down at you as you eat. Your attention is also drawn to the sweeping staircase with its gracious banister. The rise of the staircase is gentle, and you soon find yourself exploring upstairs, amid more antiques.

Not surprisingly, the bedrooms are charming, so perhaps your greatest challenge will be in deciding which one to choose. Because Sir Wilfred Laurier stayed there, we chose the Bryson room. A contemporary of George Bryson, Jr., the two politicians would have had much to talk of into the wee hours of the morning.

All of Spruceholme’s six rooms have ensuite bathrooms and the Bryson’s room is wondrous large. It is a well-lit space that boasts a generous bathtub and roomy shower stall. In fact, it is so spacious that surely any couple can dawdle about quite happily without getting in each other’s way.

And we must not forget the food. Chef Roger Guertin presents a fine selection. We both enjoyed the garlic shrimp, not overcooked – and seasoned to perfection! Desserts – all made from scratch by Marlene – are delicious. As well, this lady somehow manages to rise before her guests and make a light breakfast, with piping hot coffee.

Marlene and Glenn do close for Christmas Eve and Day, but they welcome you throughout the rest of the year. Says Marlene, “We offer a really delightful New Year’s Eve menu and at midnight, we gather around the piano. Glenn plays Auld Lang Syne, and everyone lingers, welcoming in the New Year in an old-fashioned, country style.”

Veracruz Adventure Challenge

November 8, 1998 9:27 pm
2

By Katharine Fletcher; Images Eric Fletcher

Would we be fit enough for our “adventure challenge”?

It was our sole concern as we flew to Mexico in the American Airlines plane out of Toronto.

We’d signed up for what was billed as an exhilarating 15-day Veracruz Adventure Challenge with Esprit Rafting of Davidson, Quebec. The package includes rafting the rapid-filled Barrancagrande River in the Sierre Madre Mountains, horseback riding, mountain hiking, and hiking through remote and lofty villages.

We soon found we were suitably fit. The trip was an excellent balance of physically demanding activities along with “free time” for cultural exploration of museums and galleries in Mexico City and Jalapas. And you can possibly imagine the flamboyant gaiety of the Mardi Gras celebrations we found in the port city of Veracruz!

Upon our arrival in Mexico City, Jim Coffey, owner of Esprit Rafting, personally greeted us and whisked us off to our hotel by taxi. Attentive and extremely well organized, Jim is no “hands-off” operator. Au contraire, he is always ready to answer even your most detailed questions.

The first night, Jim dined with us at one of his favourite restaurants, La Opera Bar. Mexican hero Pancho Villa once disliked the service here so much that he unloaded his pistol into its walls and ceilings! Or, so the story goes… These days the service is just fine!

Mexico’s like that full of colourful legends. And so, inspired by tales and the banter of our guides, we traveled in Esprit’s bus to its Mexican “headquarters,” the village of Jacamulco. The congested streets of the city slipped away to reveal the source of the river we’d be rafting on: the snow-capped peak of Mount Orizaba. As Jim drove – yes, all guides take their turn – we were regaled by his personal insights into the culture we would soon experience.

“We’ll be hiking through the most amazing villages,” he enthused. But he reflected, too, on the rapid changes even the remote villagers are now embracing, such as television. “Villages that had no electricity now have it. They don’t want to live in the nostalgia I like to see.”

We empathized with Jim’s nostalgia, hoping that we would still be able to see some of “the old Mexico.”

We need not have worried. Jacamulco was electrified, but its residents are genuine, and amazingly friendly. Even though we couldn’t speak much Spanish, Eric and I were often welcomed into people’s homes: they’d simply beckon us in.

One night, as a part of their Mardi Gras celebrations, the townsfolk dressed up in costume and thronged the streets in a village-wide party! We joined the swarm of dancing villagers on the cobbled lanes. The Grim Reaper darted here and there, touching people’s shoulders with his scythe. Kids squealed in mock fear, parents smiled indulgently: mirth and merriment were everywhere in evidence, despite the ambience of muerte!

It was hard to leave the throng, but we returned to eat and sleep at Expediciones Tropicales, the Mexican partner of Esprit Rafting. It offers hostel-like accommodations and scrumptious, plentiful quantities of food. Naturally, there’s cool “cervesa” (beer) to be enjoyed, too, as well as exciting videos of Esprit Rafting’s various conquests of rapids all over the world.

The physical exertions started the following day. Our destination was a rare Cloud Forest at a ranch called Las Cañadas (The Little Gorges), where we rode horses, hiked and camped for two days. Vegetarian owner Rocardo Romero created a sensation when he turned his father’s beef ranch into an organic farm. His organic produce, including milk, cheese and butter from Jersey cows, is winning the respect of neighbouring campasinos, or farmers, who are starting to realize that Ricardo is on to something economically and environmentally sustainable.

It’s intriguing to witness the ripple effect of ecotourism. As we rode out of Las Cañadas through a nearby village, Eric asked why the schoolchildren were pointing at his horse.

“Oh, they’ve just recognized yours! It belongs to one of their fathers,” laughed Ricardo. The mounts we rode did not belong to Ricardo but were rented from local campasinos. Suddenly, the kids were aware that their fathers’ horses were useful to these strange foreigners who want to explore their world.

Everywhere we rode, rafted, hiked or hiked, we found lots to discover and we realized that locals were equally as intrigued by us as we were by them. In our self-baling rafts, we bobbed through thousand-foot canyons with walls that were undercut by swirling currents. We heard jungle birds call, and surprised donkeys as we rounded a bend in the river. Campasinos paused from their labours, machetes in hand, to wane as we white-skinned, be-hatted rafters coursed past.

“Hola!” we shouted, smiling and waving in response to their greeting.

How I loved these days on the river. At night, tucked into our tents, we fell asleep under the canopy of stars. Always, always we were awakened by a cacophony of noise which started at 3:50 a.m. most mornings. Yes, braving donkeys, cock-a-doodle-doos of roosters and the chimes of morning mass conspired to raise us from our slumber!

It was difficult to say goodbye to Jacamuko but the day came for us to peddle to the coast. Eric and some others cycled the entire 50 kilometres to Chachalacas Beach, north of Veracruz. I only rode for an hour or so before boarding Esprit’s van to the coast, where beaches, waves and peaceful fishermen welcomed me.

Esprit’s logistical infrastructure is excellent. If you don’t want to participate in a scheduled activity, you can simply tell one of the guides and ride the bus or van that transports Esprit’s tents, food and gear from one night’s stop to the next.

Veracruz itself was delightful. So much colour, great music and, to top it all off, we stayed at the El Mocambo Hotel – the very first beach resort in the area, built in the 1930s. It has all the Spanish Colonial grace you could ask for, with a wonderful pool and good food. A great spot to end up after all our physical challenges.

We love Mexico: this was our fourth visit and it won’t be our last. We were never sick, we ate well, explored new terrain, and can strongly recommend that you investigate Esprit’s many inspiring adventure vacation packages. Jim is always expanding his horizons: he also offers trips to India… Guess where we want to go next?

Hidden Surprises in Gatineau Park

September 8, 1998 9:24 pm
1

By Katharine Fletcher; Images Eric Fletcher

“I hereby bequeath to the Government of Canada as a public park in trust for the citizens of Canada… my several properties at Kingsmere, in the Province of Quebec, amounting in all to nearly Five Hundred (500) acres, and the houses and other buildings erected thereon.”

So wrote former Prime Minister William Lyon Mackenzie King in his will of 1950.

It is largely because of his passionate love of the land, coupled with his personal vision, that we can enjoy Gatineau Park today. Just 20 minutes north of the spires of Parliament Hill, the park’s 125-kilometre network of woodland trails transports picnickers, hikers and mountain bikers from the concrete jungle to a green, restorative environment. King recognized the tremendous value of parks: we can be glad that he did, and that he championed Gatineau Park’s creation.

Not only does the park offer trails and historical sites to explore. There are refreshing lakes and beaches that give everyone a break from summer’s oppressive humidity. Whether it’s overnight camping at Taylor Lake campgrounds near Lac Philippe or a beachside afternoon at Meech Lake, there’s a patch of sand “with your name on it” up in the hills.

But you mustn’t think you’ll be sharing your lakeside view with a crowd! Before you go, check out a map of the park. At the Visitor’s Centre on Metcaife Street opposite Parliament
Hill, or at the Old Chelsea park information centre, you can get a map and eight new park trail brochures. Take the time to discover what’s beyond familiar Parkway destinations like the Champlain Lookout. If you want a vigorous hike and a grand view to reward your effort, ask about the Wolf Trail and remember: after you hike, you can enjoy a dip in Meech Lake! Sounds good, doesn’t it?

One spot that is a “must-see” are King’s twin properties of Kingswood Cottage, which he built in 1903, and Moorside with its delightful grounds. If you haven’t been there for a few years, check it out… and don’t forget to take your summer guests along, for it’s a little gem of history tucked away in the Canadian woods!

The National Capital Commission (NCC), which manages Gatineau Park, has beautifully interpreted both sites. At Kingswood, a video of King’s life and times provides context to his impact on the area. The cottage is a museum, which looks as it did when King enjoyed it as his personal retreat from the pressing urgency of politics.

If Kingswood was a refuge, Moorside – his larger property across the road – allowed King to experiment with creating an English country estate in Quebec’s Gatineau Hills. He revelled in the role of a country squire, building stone walls, erecting his astonishing collection of ruins, creating footpaths through the woods and designing flower gardens.

Although there is a pleasant tearoom at Moorside, you might choose to go on a woodland walk and picnic. Pack a daypack, find the Abbey ruins, and then descend the short, steep hill to the Waterfall Trail. King cleared this broad path which now passes beneath the Champlain Parkway to end at a little cascade which he named Bridal Veil Falls. Just before it, you’ll come to a fork in the trail heading right, towards Larriault picnic grounds. It’s a gentle woodsy walk that gives good views of the flat Ottawa Valley plain, which extends as far as you can see in all directions.

There’s another parking lot at Larriault, as well as picnic tables. If you want to complete a leisurely circuit, walk back to Moorside, cross the Champlain Parkway at Larriault to enter Mulvihill Lake’s picnic area.

We’ll tell you a secret! The NCC has created a pleasant, wheelchair-accessible dock on this man-made lake. Paved trails that are perfect for tiny tots and folks with walkers or wheelchairs make the short, gentle descent to the lake manageable. The sturdy dock with solid railings and benches extends into the lake to allow everyone to enjoy the air. To return to Moorside, find the sign pointing to the estate at the foot of the lake.

The entire circuit can be walked in less than an hour, but our bet is that you’ll want to make it a more leisurely excursion. Because Moorside, Larriault and Mulvihill all have their own parking lots, you can fashion your own “custom circuit.”

But don’t think that the Mackenzie King Estates are all there is to do in Gatineau Park!

A quick glance at a map reveals a park full of lakes and intriguing-sounding trails: Wolf, Nature, King Mountain and Discovery trails are only a few of the best. Three lakes: Meech, Mousseau (Harrington) and Philippe are accessible by hiking trails from O’Brien Beach, Just beyond Old Chelsea on the Meech Lake Road, and Lac Lapeche, the largest of the lakes, is only a 90-minute drive from Ottawa.

Also enquire about canoeing, mountain hiking, booking campsites, or about interpreted walks that might be offered at the campgrounds in the summertime.

This year, make getting to know Gatineau Park a personal goal. Hey, you’ll have fun in the sun, get some fresh air and get fit, all at once. What a great deal!

Trekking: Travel Tips for a Honeymoon in South East Asia

June 8, 1998 9:21 pm
June

Rob and Annie Cornforth recently returned from an eight-month honeymoon in South East Asia.

Ottawa Life has followed their travels since September 1997. Now the globetrotters are back, telling us about their experiences and how it feels to be back home. (Look for Rob and Annie on Parliament Hill as Captain Seymour Canada and Missus Canada, selling Cuddle Canada pillows to finance their next big trip.)

Just before leaving, we were filled with intense optimism and raw fear. Our fear vanished shortly after our arrival in Denpasar, Bali, in September 1997. The initial culture shock was one of the more exciting moments of our trip.

Eventually, all the dreams we had for our extended honeymoon would be realized. We found adventure, reinforced our love and grew spiritually. Today, we know that we made the right decision by following our dreams.

Did we ever get bored in our travels? Sometimes, but the trip changed our lives forever. We’re different people now. We look the same but our friends say we’ve changed in some hard-to-define way.

We’re grateful to have had the opportunity to share our adventures with you. We hope we have encouraged others out there to follow their dreams.

What you should pack for such a trip:
one camera; one pair of waterproof sandals; one pair of hiking boots; two pairs of socks; Lycra thermal underwear (shirt and pants); one pair of quick-dry pants with zippers so that they can be turned into shorts; two dirt-tone T-shirts; raincoat; Ziploc freezer bags for passports and photocopies of important documents; first aid/toiletry kits; two books (fiction and non-fiction) for those occasional boring moments; Lonely Planet guidebook; waterproof money belt; Leatherman knife; a durable hat.

Closest call:
Being locked in a van and almost being robbed, abducted, and/or beaten in Solo, Indonesia.

Dreams come true:
Riding an elephant, climbing a volcano; jungle trekking; sex on a South East Asian beach, learning yoga.

Best deals:
Accommodation and meals for $1.30 in Nong Khiaw, Laos; acoustic guitar purchased for $25 in Solo, Indonesia; ceremonial mask bought in Bangkok for S15, retails for US$90 on Melrose Avenue in El Ay.

Favourite dishes:
Pad Thai; papaya salad; green curry and rice; sticky rice; fresh tropical fruit.

Health:
Rob lost 30 pounds and Annie lost 15 pounds after a seven-month vegetarian diet and constant exertion.

Get to the Point: Yellow Point Lodge

9:04 pm
YellowpointLodge

By Katharine Fletcher; Images Eric Fletcher

World War II POW Gerry Hill sustained his life during his internment by honing a cherished dream. He resolved to build a resort when he regained his freedom. There, he envisioned, visitors would relax and enjoy British Columbian nature at its best.

He realized his goal. While touring Vancouver Island’s east coast, he discovered 180 acres, complete with a mile and a half of . Today, the magic he saw remains: fragrant wildflowers and grasses still blow in the breeze off the ocean. Cedar and arbutus woods frame the beach meadows, beckoning you to linger in their shade, to explore their mysteries. Yellow Point is a mere two-hour drive north of Victoria and overlooks the spectacular inner channel to the coastal mountains of BC.

Amid this glory, old Gerry built Yellow Point Lodge right on the granite rocks. Built from cedar, the lodge welcomed its first guests in 1936.

From the start, Gerry created a getaway from the stresses of life. A lingering place fit for honeymoons and anniversaries, for lovers and comfortable friends. Time has proven his astuteness, for Yellow Point Lodge snuggles into your soul and won’t let you go.

So popular is it that many times of the year – including the summer solstice are booked by returning groups of friends who celebrate the seasons of their lives here.

Amazing views to relax the soul.

In 1985, in Gerry’s 90th year, the lodge burned to the ground. Amazingly, Friends of Yellow Point was struck and, like the proverbial Phoenix, a new, generously gabled cedar lodge rose from the ashes. Today it is operated by Gerry’s son Richard and daughter-in-law Sandi.

But what is it that makes people return, year after year? What magnetic power does the Point possess?

Perhaps it’s the towering stone fireplace encircled by overstuffed sofas. Or the beach barbecues where seafood and corn on the cob are served on picnic tables, allowing strangers and good friends to mingle.

Possibly it’s the rhythms of Nature, the endless roll of the waves on the beach. In winter, orcas and sea lions swim in the bay. In summer, deep in the forest, you might catch a glimpse of a deer, hear the melodious call of the wren, or spy a hummingbird hovering in a shaft of sunlight. Whatever it is, the spell is cast.

If you are like us, you cherish balancing relaxation with physical activities. The lodge offers swimming, tennis or mountain hiking, sea kayaking or canoeing-each included in the price of your stay. Ask the lodge to make you a picnic lunch, then off you’ll go, free and easy. We particularly enjoy such days, when we feel sure that just this once we can thwart Time. It is impossible to say how many hours we’ve spent, stretched flat on the rocks, gazing into the busy life-in-miniature captured in a tidal pool. It’s a glimpse of childhood’s carefree ways.

Yes, there are many reasons to ‘get to the Point.’ Some are drawn by the few remaining, primitive cabins that Gerry built, cast like pebbles on the beach. Impossibly close to the ocean for today’s environmental code, they hark back to less regulated times. These are our personal favourites. At night, you could swear you’ll be transported away, like a Jane Urquhart hero, upon the ocean’s waves, which wash close to the door. However, morning discovers you snug in your bed, stretching with the salty air and ready for beachcombing.

A rustic cabin is the perfect place to relax.

If you prefer the comforts of fully outfitted cottages (beach cabin guests share showers and toilets), there are cottages in the woods, meadows and others perched atop rocky cliffs with grand ocean views. As well, nine rooms in the lodge, offer something for most tastes.

But not for all. Yellow Point makes no pretense to be everyone’s cup of tea. For us, it is the lodge’s quietude and its lingering atmosphere of tranquility that urge us to return. And we enjoy mealtimes where guests sit together at tables set for eight or ten. But if you want the bright lights, a casino or extreme adventure vacations, save it for another time. You can be sure Yellow Point Lodge will be there, firmly affixed on its rock, waiting for you.

Cushing Lodge Nature Retreat

May 8, 1998 9:03 pm
1

By Katharine Fletcher

There’s a hot tub with your name on it overlooking a private lake an hour’s drive from Ottawa.

Just imagine how relaxed you’ll feel, toasty warm, luxuriating in the tub with the canopy of stars twinkling in the heavens above. Can you identify the constellations Orion and Big Dipper? You’ll find these and more far away from the light pollution of Ottawa.

It’s all part of the experience you will enjoy at Cushing Lodge B&B Nature Retreat, located just north of Ladysmith, West Quebec. The 250-hectare property offers kilometres of forested trails for your hiking enjoyment. And, as summer warms the waters of Indian Lake, there is good swimming along with a safe, sandy beach for youngsters.

The perfect retreat from the big city.

Geoffrey and Jo-Ellen Cushing built the lodge in October 1991. It was a challenge, carving the winding laneway from the country road to their brand-new home and resort. They built the main lodge and its dining room, along with a guest lodge, on the shores of a private lake. If you’re lucky, you’ll spy the playful otters that call the lake home. We have enjoyed prolonged looks at them; the last time we were at the lodge there were five of them. With the help of a powerful scope, we felt as if we were right beside the otters as they dove, splashed and played in the lake.

Ask Jo-Ellen and Geoffrey where to look. The high-powered scope is ready and waiting for you, mounted on a tripod in front of the bay windows in the dining room.

During the month of May, migrant birds are returning to our region, so this is a great time to explore the countryside. The silence of the whiter woods is broken by songbirds’ twitterings as they establish territories and build their nests.

Cushing Lodge is an increasingly well-known raptor centre. Raptors (birds of prey) have been a lifelong passion for the Cushings.

Lakes as clean and smooth as glass.

Says Jo-Ellen: “Since childhood we have been intrigued and fascinated by raptors. We have wondered why they have been worshipped and used as symbols of peace and power for centuries. Yet, at times man has scorned and persecuted these winged predators. We believe that through education and facilities such as ours, people can gain a better appreciation for and understanding   of   the importance that raptors play in the natural world.”

Included in her collection of these fascinating birds is Casper the barn owl. Due to habitat loss – old barns are rapidly being demolished – this species is increasingly at risk. Also at risk is the gorgeous snowy owl, and the Cushings are completing a new “snowy” facility this summer, in July.

A real treat is to participate in the raptor in-flight demonstration that the Cushings annually host in conjunction with the African Lion Safari Farms of Cambridge, Ontario. It’s an unforgettable experience to watch birds of prey such as the Harris hawk, snowy owl and others fly at close range. Spectators are asked to volunteer to help with the demonstration-

We can vouch for how thrilling it is to watch a “snowy” fly close to the ground, hugging the meadow and then swoop up to perch on your wrist! Don’t be afraid: you’ll be given a sturdy leather gauntlet to wear so the raptor’s talons don’t inadvertently scratch you.

A rustic lodge with all the comforts you need.

Even if there’s no flight demonstration happening, Jo-Ellen will enthusiastically show you the birds. Bald eagles, hawks and owls regard you with interest when you peer into their enclosures. Ask her about her breed-and-release program for these threatened species.

But if leisurely walks in the woods are more your thing, simply head off down one of the trails. In May, trilliums nod in the spring breezes. Look for all three variety: the white trillium, the wakerobin (red trillium) and the painted, which is more fragile than the others and has a magenta “V” in each of its three white petals.

And, if all you want to do is relax in the hot tub, have tasty meals and forget about work, the Cushing Lodge B&B near Ladysmith, Québec, is a destination we’re sure you’ll enjoy.

Recent Posts