Finding Chiang Mai’s Soul on the Samoeng Loop

My family and I woke to the rattle of the tin roof outside our house as a thunderstorm rolled into the valley after months of dry weather and forest fires. It was the start of a new season, yet the end of our eight years in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Between the rumble of thunder and the gentle dance of the rain, we sat in silence as we felt our time in this beautiful country come to a close.

These are the contradictions of Chiang Mai. The chaos of vehicle motors hums alongside the peaceful songs of birds and insects. Markets are loud with music, while sweet, sour and spicy flavours send even the most seasoned Thai-food lover into an appreciative trance. Every sound, smell and view seems to ask: how can so many things exist at once? This question draws in visitors and locals alike, beckoning them to explore the beauty and vibrancy that permeate every street.

The Samoeng Loop is a haven for the complex soul of Chiang Mai. During the COVID-19 pandemic, I got lost on its web of backroads in search of abandoned buildings, cafés and a sense of peace amidst uncertainty. Five years later, its essence remained unchanged, calling me back to get lost in the hidden treasures tucked into its lush forests, mountains and winding roads.

The Loop Begins: Bunny Hop Cafe

Despite the abundance of new cafes in Chiang Mai, I knew our late breakfast had to be at Bunny Hop Cafe. Five years ago, it was my family’s go-to spot for a quick, delicious meal. As I went to place my order, I immediately recognized the store owner we once befriended.

“Tell your family anytime they’re visiting in Chiang Mai, we would love to have them stop by,” she told me.

This is the kindness, friendliness and hospitality that flows throughout Thailand and summons visitors back into its borders. The Pad-Kra-Pao was as delicious as I’d remembered all these years.

The First Stop: Valley Coffee

On the left-hand side of the road is Valley Coffee. Although part of Lanna Resort, the cafe is popular due to its fun swing decor alongside a river. We grabbed a Thai Tea and headed out to the riverbank, which is now equipped with ropes and tubes for swimming. These grounds are enshrouded with tall trees and paths to explore, awash with the sound of the rushing river.

A Secret Spot: Éléphants au Naturels

I discovered Éléphants au Naturels years earlier on a bikeride while watching the mahouts (elephant caretakers) and their elephants walk down the road. However, the main hint to the small camp’s existence is the “Elephant Crossing” sign. A little hike down from the rocky parking lot, we found the elephants grazing by a covered shelter. The mahouts kindly offered to take photos of us with the elephants, who greeted us with a gentle hug of their trunks. If you follow the sound of the river, you may even get to see them bathing in a waterfall!

Read more about the food, waterfalls or mountain roads of Chiang Mai on our travel site here: Finding Chiang Mai’s Soul on the Samoeng Loop – Travel Trek and Tour