A Bequia Summer: Discovering the Charm of St. Vincent & the Grenadines’ Largest Island

A family trip to the beautiful island of Bequia has left us with memories we won’t soon forget.


The Summer of Bequia

My story about time spent in Bequia begins in St. Vincent and the taxi ride from Argyle International Airport to the island’s ferry terminal. My earliest impressions of St. Vincent are formed on this ride. In my head, those first impressions inspire a name: the island of winding roads and steep hills, I call St. Vincent. Not the catchiest of epithets, I concede, and so one that I keep to myself, more or less. Still, I like to think it captures some geographical essence of this green, lush and mountainous Eastern Caribbean island located in the Caribbean Sea west of Barbados and north of Grenada.

Indeed, much of the highway on which we’re driving is a series of ascents and descents, with often sharp twists and turns. The island’s beaches are below, largely hidden from view, accessed by steep and sometimes winding roads or driveways. Above are similarly steep roads and driveways that lead up into the mountains and the colourful homes located therein, some worn and in need of repair, others grand and stunning. One will drive past roadside bars, fresh produce vendors and the occasional stray dog, all of whom have an uncanny ability to keep clear of the vehicles rushing by. After not too long a drive, one gets to downtown Kingstown, the island and country’s capital. There is a busyness typical of a capital city. Drivers necessarily have to slow down. At one especially busy intersection, police officers direct traffic. People are walking in and out of stores or to and from work.

Here is where you will find the city’s biggest and busiest produce markets, where inland farmers sell the fruits and vegetables of their labour. The city core features other crucial landmarks. The courthouse, parliament buildings and police station. There are old, historic churches. So many vital institutions in so concentrated a space gives rise to the sort of energy unique to cities.

St. Vincent’s ferry terminal is located just beyond the city core and is a crucial hub of activity for the obvious reason: St. Vincent & the Grenadines comprises thirty-two islands, all of which are relatively small. Getting to and from islands thus requires travelling via ferry. After St Vincent — referred to as the ‘mainland’ — Bequia is the biggest among the Grenadines. Until recently, the ferries moved at a single speed, more or less, which meant it would take approximately an hour to get from the mainland to Bequia. In the past year or so, however, the government has introduced a second, quicker option. The ‘fast ferry,’ as it’s called, travels the same distance in about 35 minutes. The time saved is especially appreciated by citizens who travel back and forth between islands, often for work or, if you’re a younger person, for school. For a tourist, either ferry ride is just fine. A half hour is convenient, to be sure, but an hour at sea is hardly draining or time-consuming.

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PHOTO: Don Maclean