Many years ago, I was driving from Ottawa to Toronto with my nine-year-old son when he asked about Fort Henry, the historic 19th-century British military fortress on the shore of the Cataraqui and St. Lawrence River in Kingston, Ontario. I fondly recall our impromptu stop and the wonderful time we spent exploring the fort.
Aside from an overnight spent on a boat moored in Kingston Harbour, I have never explored this gem of a town that Queen Victoria had once decided should be the capital of the Dominion of Canada before flip-flopping and bestowing Bytown (Ottawa) with the honour.
Kingston has the architectural grandeur of a town that was gunning to be the seat of government; its limestone buildings stand as grand old dames of a time gone by, including the tri-dome of the Kingston courthouse, St. George’s Cathedral, and City Hall, which are not only aligned but are of the same proportion and height. Domed buildings are rare in Canada; Montreal’s Bonsecour Market aside, it is a treat to see so many examples of these unique structures in one town. Today, these elegant domes remain visible because of a city ordinance that restricts building heights.
The Town Hall that sits majestically on Ontario Street is often mistaken for the temporary site of the Parliament of Upper and Lower Canada (1941-9144). However, we learned from our Kingston Trolley Tour guide that the then government of Upper and Lower Canada leased space from the hospital to host parliament. Less than grand digs for our federal politicians!
ABOVE: Like many of the pre-1920 buildings in Kington, City Hall was constructed of locally quarried limestone until cheaper bricks became more popular.
A trolley tour is a great way to begin a stay in historic Kingston. You’ll get a feel for the footprint of the city while learning about local history and pick up some recommendations on restaurants and attractions along the way. The tour takes you through the grounds of the Royal Military College, across town to the Gord Downie Memorial Pier, the Kingston Penitentiary and past the university before winding its way back downtown. During the summer months, enjoy hop-on, hop-off privileges, but in the off-season, sit back and enjoy the full tour.
PHOTO: Tim Forbes Photography, Tourism Kingston
Kingston is home to one of the world’s most revered universities. Queen’s is currently ranked number 251, which is impressive when you consider that there are 3,000-plus universities in the U.S. alone. Canada’s Royal Military College (RMC) is in Kingston. Unlike its sister institution in Saint-Jean, Quebec, RMC accepts high school graduates who graduate as fully commissioned officers in the Canadian Armed Forces.
The university students and faculty in Kingston lend a buzz and energy to the city that keeps it vibrant. Princess Street is home to many nice boutiques, independent coffee shops, and a great selection of trendy and chic restaurants and bars. The staff at the Visit Kingston’s information centre, located in the refurbished train station on Ontario Street, said that Kingston is the food capital of Canada . . . Wait, did I hear her right?
ABOVE: The Visitor Information Centre adjacent to Confederation Park was once the Kingston & Pembroke Railway Station.
Whether the limestone city is king of the kitchen or not, it is a little jewel for foodies, and the service everywhere is simply fabulous. We dined at the family-run Olivea and were blown away by the delicious meal. Like many local kitchens, this Italian-style trattoria takes pride in fresh local ingredients. The restaurant turnover is such that the staff barely has a chance to clear a table before another group is seated, and when we visited, I couldn’t help but notice the steady stream of customers without reservations being turned away. You might think that this is to be expected on a busy night, but it was a Tuesday. We witnessed the same phenomenon at the hip Tango Nuevo that serves tapas-style sharing plates and where the food is also delicious. Our server recommended 3-4 plates per person, but the five dishes we ordered were plenty for the two of us. The yellow curry sea bass was especially memorable.
About two kilometres from downtown Kingston sits Canada’s first penitentiary for violent offenders. The circa 1830s prison dates to a time when prisoners exchanged their names for a number and were not permitted to speak. The menacing limestone walls topped with barbed wire and most of the buildings were built by inmates, and the stone was also quarried by them. A 2.5-hour Kingston Pen Tour is hosted by former prison staff who give their personal accounts of working at the facility before it closed for good in 2013. When you visit, make sure to leave time to take in the Canadian Prison Museum located across the street in the former warden’s residence. Entrance is free, but donations are accepted.
ABOVE: Note the difference in the size of the cells from when the Kingston Pen — known as the ten toughest acres in Canada — first opened in 1835 (bottom right) and when it closed in 2013.
Heading back toward town, stop at the Bellevue House National Historical Site. The former home to Canada’s first prime minister is currently closed for renovations, but the gardens are open to visitors.
Midday, we enjoyed afternoon tea at the lovingly restored Secret Garden Inn on Sydenham Street. Our waiter brought a tray of seasonal tea blends and allowed us to smell the incredible aromas of each before we made our selection. The tea was accompanied by a delicious array of curated savoury sandwiches and sweets on a custom-designed tri-level platter. The setting and service were simply perfect. I’d love to rent all seven rooms for a girls’ weekend or take advantage of their couple’s escape package that includes dinner and breakfast.
Kingstonian and certified tea sommelier Kaoru Mille of Cha Cha Tea, created the tea we enjoyed with our lunch. Her west-end shop is worth a visit. Keeping with the foodie theme, we popped into the Kingston Olive Oil Company on Princess Street and left with a new appreciation of quality oil and balsamic vinegar. The store allows customers to taste every oil and vinegar in stock, and the helpful staff explain the flavour profiles and offer tips on how to use each best. Frequent visitors to Kingston can benefit from their loyalty program, and everyone can purchase their products online, including their very cool seasonal advent calendar.
Kingston is known for its great freshwater sailing and was the home of the sailing events when Montreal hosted the 1976 Olympics. A 1000 Island Cruises’ Discovery Cruise is a great way to see the town from the water. Tickets can be purchased at the wharf-side kiosk at 1 Brock Street for the one-hour informative ride that takes you past the Royal Military College, Fort Henry, The Gord Downie Memorial Pier at Breakwater Park and the Kingston Penitentiary.
PHOTO: Dwayne Brown Studio, Tourism Kingston
While in Kingston, we stayed at the four-star Delta Hotels by Marriott Kingston Waterfront. It is the perfect central location. The hotel parking comes with in-out privileges, but so much is within walking distance that we barely drove. The hotel restaurant overlooks the water and the 19th-century Martello tower that reminds visitors of the once-strategic naval importance of the city. The service is excellent, and although we only enjoyed breakfast, I could have sat there all day looking at the Wolfe Island ferry going back and forth and the boat traffic in the harbour below. Apparently, the hotel itself was designed to look like a barge moored in the harbour. It is not obvious, but it is nice that it is surrounded on three sides by water.
PHOTO: Diamond Hotels Management Inc.
Kingston is known for its great freshwater sailing and was the home of the sailing events when Montreal hosted the 1976 Olympics. A 1000 Island Cruises’ Discovery Cruise is a great way to see the town from the water. Tickets can be purchased at the wharf-side kiosk at 1 Brock Street for the one-hour informative ride that takes you past the Royal Military College, Fort Henry, The Gord Downie Memorial Pier at Breakwater Park and the Kingston Penitentiary.
From performances and art shows to hiking, boating, biking, haunted walks, food tours and more, there is so much to do and explore in Kingston. Instead of zooming past the Kingston exits on the 401, pack a bag and check into one of the many hotels or B&Bs for a weekend or even a mid-week teleworking escape. Your stomach will thank you.
Visit Kingston has done the planning for you with its click-and-book getaway packages, available on its website. Click here to find out more.
For more information on Kingston, visit www.visitkingston.ca/
Header photo: Tim-Forbes, Tourism Kingston
