If you’re looking for a quick getaway that delivers big on scenery, history, and small-town charm, the Adirondacks are hard to beat. Just under three hours from Ottawa—via Ogdensburg and the scenic stretch through the Thousand Islands—you’ll find yourself in a part of upstate New York that feels both familiar and refreshingly different.
The drive itself sets the tone. The roads quiet down, the landscape opens up, and the pace slows. It’s the kind of trip where you roll down the windows, breathe in the crisp October air, and watch the leaves shift from green to gold to deep red. Fall in the Adirondacks isn’t just beautiful—it’s dramatic. We left Ottawa on a bright morning, the kind where the sun feels warmer than it should, and lucked out with five straight days of clear skies and sunshine.
There’s something about the Adirondacks in October that makes you want to slow down. The colours are sharp and vivid, the sky a clean blue, and the mountains lit up with that warm, golden glow you only get in early fall.
Crossing into New York State via Ogdensburg, we made our way south toward Lake Placid, but not before stopping in Saranac Lake for lunch. Lake Flower is the centrepiece of town, and Lakeside Drift is the only Adirondack waterfront restaurant on its shore. It’s a relaxed spot with a fresh, local menu and outdoor seating that looks out over the lake. In early October, the shoreline was starting to turn, and we observed a few kayakers paddle quietly across the water. It was a relaxing, serine and steady way to ease into the trip.
ABOVE (CLOCKWISE): High Peaks Resort’s Lakeside Pool and watercraft that available for guest use. Across the street, the High Peaks Resort hotel main entrance with a view of Mirror Lake. The hotel’s Lakeside open directly onto a green space with access to the water. The High Peaks Resort hotel’s main lobby has an inviting Adirondack vibe.
From there, it was a short drive to Lake Placid, a town that’s earned its place on the map by hosting the Winter Olympics—twice. The first was in 1932, when 17 nations and 252 athletes gathered during the height of the Great Depression. It was the first Winter Games held outside Europe and introduced the Olympic victory podium. Local speed skater Jack Shea won two golds, and Eddie Eagan became the only athlete in history to win gold in both Summer and Winter Games.
The second was in 1980, remembered for the “Miracle on Ice,” when the U.S. hockey team stunned the Soviets. These Games brought global attention to Lake Placid and cemented its reputation as a world-class destination and sports hub.
We stayed at High Peaks Resort, right on Main Street, in one of their lakeside rooms that open directly onto Mirror Lake. The views were stunning—especially at sunrise—and the rooms were modern, clean, and incredibly comfortable. The staff were friendly and helpful, and the location couldn’t be better. It’s the kind of place where you feel like you’re in the middle of everything, but still have your own quiet retreat. It was really perfect in every way. And, even in early October you can still take a nice brisk swim in Mirror Lake Inn, which I highly recommend.
Dinner at Dancing Bears Restaurant, inside the High Peaks Resort, was a solid choice for our first night. The bar had a good buzz, with a strong lineup of craft beers, spirits, and wines. The dinner specials leaned into comfort food—straightforward, well-made, and satisfying. We ended up coming back the next two mornings for breakfast, which clearly has a local following. Generous portions, quick service, and a relaxed atmosphere made it an easy favourite.
Just a few minutes from town is the Olympic Jumping Complex, home to the towering ski jumps used in both Olympic Games. Recently renovated, the site now features the Skyride gondola, which takes you up to the base of the jumps. From there, a glass elevator lifts you to the top of the 128-meter tower, offering panoramic views of the Adirondack High Peaks. Looking down the jump ramp is humbling—these athletes launch themselves into the air with precision and courage. Lake Placid has long been a training ground for U.S. ski jumpers, and the complex continues to host national and international competitions.
On the backside of the ski jumps is the John Brown Farm State Historic Site, the final resting place of the famed abolitionist. Brown led the 1859 raid on Harper’s Ferry and was later executed for treason. His grave and farmhouse are preserved as a New York State Historic Site, and the walking trails around the property are peaceful and scenic—especially in the fall. It’s a quiet, reflective stop that adds depth to any visit.
The next day, we set out to explore the newly completed Adirondack Rail Trail—a 54.7-kilometre path that follows the historic route of the New York Central Railroad. For a comfortable day ride, the 10-mile (16 km) section between Lake Placid and Saranac Lake is ideal. The terrain is smooth and well-maintained, with a gentle grade that passes through Ray Brook, Lake Clear, and alongside Lake Colby, Little Colby Pond, and Lake Flower. It’s accessible year-round and has rejuvenated the region by connecting communities and boosting local tourism.
ABOVE (CLOCKWISE): Whether you rent or bring your own, Bike Lake Placid, with its ample parking adjacent to the former rail line, is a great starting point for a ride on the 54.7-kilometre Adirondack Rail Trail that connects Lake Placid, Saranac Lake and Tupper Lake. The Rail Trail is open year-round and passes over the Insta-worthy Little Colby Pond.
We rented bikes from Bike Lake Placid, located at 455 Old Military Rd. Their team was friendly, knowledgeable, and offered great prices on both standard and e-bike rentals. They know the trail inside out and gave us tips on scenic stops and places to eat.
The ride itself was relaxed and scenic. We cycled from Lake Placid to Saranac Lake and back, covering about 32 km at a leisurely pace. The trail winds through forests, over rivers, and past lakes, with plenty of spots to stop and take in the views. It’s quiet, peaceful, and perfect for riders of all levels.
In Saranac Lake, we stopped for lunch at RiverTrail Beerworks, a lively brewpub that’s become a local favourite since opening in 2022. It offers a farm-to-table menu with standout items like the Rainbow Trout, Pad Thai and tacos. Their beer list is impressive, with rotating taps that include the Blackberry Sour, Clear Skies IPA, and Backcountry Kölsch. The vibe is hip and welcoming, the staff are knowledgeable, while the food is fresh, flavourful and includes healthy options along with pub favourites.
Even if you’re not cycling, Saranac Lake is made for walking. The Riverwalk Trail runs along the Saranac River and through the historic downtown, while nearby paths offer easy access to nature. Locals say the best way to know the town is to walk it—and they’re right.
Back in Lake Placid, we capped off the day with a visit to the Cloudsplitter Rooftop Bar at the Grand Adirondack Hotel. It’s the only rooftop bar in town, and the views of Mirror Lake and the surrounding peaks are unbeatable. The cocktails are well-crafted, and the atmosphere is relaxed and stylish.
ABOVE: The east end of Main Street features the outdoor ice-skating oval, the 1932 Olympic Arena, and the Olympic Museum, while the west end opens up to lake views and a charming mix of shops and eateries.
A great dinner stop can be found at The Cottage, just steps from High Peaks Resort. Perched right on Mirror Lake, it’s cozy and casual, with a menu that includes warm brie, chipotle salads, and hearty entrees. The lakeside setting and friendly service make it one of Lake Placid’s most inviting spots.
This stretch of the Adirondacks offers everything—scenery, history, great food, and a trail that ties it all together. Whether you ride, walk, or just sit back and take it in, it’s a trip worth making.
After a couple of days at Lake Placid and Saranac Lake, we packed up and headed east on Route 73. The road cuts through the heart of the Adirondack High Peaks, and in early October, the hillsides were lit with fall colour. It’s a quiet drive—no billboards, no rush—just long views, trailheads, and the occasional roadside diner.
Keene and Keene Valley sit along this stretch and are worth a stop. These towns are rooted in the mountains. Hikers launch their climbs here, but there’s more than trailheads. Keene Arts hosts concerts and exhibits year-round. Dartbrook Lodge offers well-kept cabins and suites in the Great Camp style, and its on-site shop and Forty-Six Restaurant are both worth visiting. East Branch Organics is part garden centre, part local market, with a good selection of regional beer and wine.
The Noonmark Diner in Keene Valley is a fixture. Known for its pies—especially raspberry crumb and blueberry—it also serves solid breakfasts and lunches. It’s the kind of place where muddy boots are welcome and the coffee keeps coming.
ABOVE: Despite having no signage, Split Rock Falls has a small pull off for cars and can be easily found using Google Maps.
Route 73 eventually meets Route 9N, and we turned south toward Elizabethtown. Before reaching town, we made a quick stop at Split Rock Falls—just a pull-off from Route 9 and a short walk down to the water’s edge. It was a warm midweek afternoon in October, the kind of day that tricks you into thinking summer hasn’t quite let go. The falls were roaring, and the leaves were at their peak. I kicked off my clothes and took the plunge. It was refreshing-cold water chill dissipated quickly in the comfort of the warm fall sun. Swimming beneath the upper cascade, with sunlight cutting through the trees, felt like stepping into a postcard that hadn’t been staged. A perfect afternoon. What makes Split Rock Falls stand out isn’t just the beauty—it’s the vibe. Locals and travellers mingle here like it’s a shared secret. No gate, no fee, no fuss. Just nature doing its thing. The upper pool is deep enough for a proper swim, and the lower tier offers a gentler flow for lounging or dipping your toes. If you’re carving through the region, this stop deserves more than a glance.
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