Angry Birds in Montreal

October 24, 2011 2:29 pm
MarchingBandInMovement

It is clear that getting your hands on Montreal Canadiens tickets can be a difficult task and an expensive one. However, there is another sports team worth checking out just outside Ottawa, the Montreal Alouettes, winners of the 2009 and 2010 Grey Cups.

The journey across the 417 from Ottawa to Montreal to experience a football game makes for a great weekend getaway or day trip. Sitting on the steel bench, if you fail to bring a cushion, in the recently renovated Percival Molson Memorial Stadium, home to the McGill Redmen and the Montreal Alouettes, provides a thrilling experience. It also gives you the chance to see a CFL living legend in Anthony Cavillo, the all-time leading passer. The stadium, perched on Mount Royal, arguably the most majestic park in Montreal can now accommodate 25,012 spectators. Since 1998 the sports ground welcomes both teams allowing McGill University, the owners of the stadium, to avoid being in the red.

View of Montreal's skyline

The Percival Molson Memorial Stadium, named in memory of Captain Percival Molson, a McGill student and athlete who died during the First World War, has to be one of the nicest stadiums in Canada. Once inside the bowl, built in 1915 and designed by Percy Erskine Nobbs, your eyes set on a wonderful scenic view of Montreal’s skyline.  However, don’t go straight to your seat as there are plenty of gatherings before kick off. You can join in the tailgating near the coliseum enjoying the park, some grilled meats and perhaps a few drinks. You might want to get a few beers in before game-time since they go for a steep $9.25 inside. You can also sway your way to the nearby Tam-Tam festivities. There tourists and Montrealers alike, gather every Sunday from spring to fall near the George-Étienne Cartier Monument to partake in hippie-like activities. Why not bring your sword and shield to join-in the elaborate medieval battle which takes place on Park Mont-Royal.

Tailgating before the game

During the game, the atmosphere is exceptional as player’s chirp one another and fans screech incessantly supporting their angry birds. Unlike hockey, you are not as close to the action as there is a large perimeter separating the field and the stands. Within the space, cheerleaders and mascots frolic during play stoppages. Speaking of entertainment, at half-time, the Boston Screaming Eagles Marching Band orchestrated a mesmerizing show parading inside the sports arena. It is impressive to see those young musicians and dancers manoeuvring in unity around the field forming shapes seamlessly while playing captivating music. The tenor drums will surely captivate your tympanum.

After the hyperactivity inside the amphitheatre, you can keep up the rhythm waltzing on the nearby Mont-Royal Avenue. This commercial pathway offers restaurants, bars, boutiques and coffeehouses. The strip also connects with St-Laurent Blvd. and St-Denis St, two of Montreal’s most animated arteries. If you’re hungry you could check out the famous Au Pied de Cochon restaurant, fitting after a pigskin game.

 

Bank on One King West

October 7, 2011 2:31 pm
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Next time you are heading to the Big Smoke and need a place to hang your hat, be sure to check out the digs at the übercool, perfectly located One King West Hotel & Residence. At King and Bay, you just can’t get more downtown Toronto than here and the subway is literally outside your door. While One King West is slick, hip, has everything you could possibly need (for business or pleasure) and is ultra modern, the building itself is steeped in history.  And that makes it particularly special and intriguing for history buffs.

One King West’s story began back in the mid 1800s. It was first home to a grocer and wine merchant.  Then, in 1879, the location changed owners to become home to the head office of The Dominion Bank (now TD Canada Trust). That lasted an incredible 126 years.

However, the bank’s incredible growth at the turn of the last century resulted in the need for more space.  This led to the construction of one of Toronto’s first skyscrapers. Beaux-Arts in style with Renaissance Revival detailing, the building was a major work of Darling and Pearson, Architects (You have seen their handiwork a bit closer to home. In fact, look no further than Parliament Hill. They are the architects who designed Centre Block.)

A bank remained on site until 1999. Then it was redesigned and a second tower, adjacent to the old building was built. By 2006, the transformation was finally complete, resulting in One King West Hotel & Residence. (If you want to learn more about the history of the place, the hotel has panels on the walls with interesting details.) Throughout all of the changes, (including this spring’s $2 million revitalization to common areas and meeting rooms) the building has retained all of its majestic beauty. In fact, it was designated a Heritage Building years ago.

One incredible feature of the hotel is the bank vault. At the time of its construction, it was considered the largest and best equipped bank vault in Canada. It is approximately 33 feet square by 25 feet high and is divided into two floors. It is so impressive that it has been used in numerous movie scenes, including the movie Jumper, Max Payne, Red (with Bruce Willis). No surprise, the hotel is a popular location for Hollywood shoots and other movies. And the stars love to actually stay here too. It is particularly busy during the Toronto International Film Festival and the hotel is the official host hotel for the Battle of the Blades.

Superior Suites at One King West

Today, guests of the hotel are treated to the historical splendour of the Dominion Bank Building along with the modern sophistication of luxurious hotel amenities and services. The rooms are all modern with unbelievably comfortable beds. All rooms even come equipped with a washing machine and dryer.

The hotel caters to business clients and professional clientele, offering outstanding business services and the most amazing boardrooms in which to hold meetings. Then there is the Grand Banking Hall, with high ceilings, beautiful detailing. It even has
Canada’s longest bar (at 100 ft), modeled after the original tellers’ counter).

It’s worth staying at One King West  for the fitness area and rooftop terrace alone. The gym is amazing. Located on the 17th floor, it offers an incredible view of Lake Ontario. After your workout, you can fill up on the hotel’s breakfast buffet served in the lobby area (or enjoy something a little stronger in the bar.) The restaurants and bars run off the lobby, which acts as the main hub area. It is great for people watching too. The menus are innovative and cater to various diets including celiac, vegan, and vegetarian and also offer local food options. There is something for every palette, including that hard to please health fanatic. (They even have quinoa on the menu.)

The staff are all friendly and aim to please to make sure your visit exceeds every expectation. Check out the hotel web site for further details at  www.onekingwest.com/hotel. While you will get a sense of the majesty of the place, the hotel itself blows the photos away. Whether you’re in TO for business or pleasure, One King West Hotel & Residence won’t let you down.

One King West Hotel & Residence

1 King Street West, Toronto, ON M5H 1A1

1-866-470 KING (5464)

reservations@onekingwest.com

The Greatest Sailing Adventure Ever!

9:23 am
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One of the greatest sailing adventures in the world is the Haida Gwaii- Queen Charlotte Islands journey by Maple Leaf Adventures. It is a dream excursion which I took with my 14 year-old daughter. Together we explored the wildlife, nature, history and Aboriginal heritage of Canada’s northwest Pacific coast. Rich wildlife and evolutionary changes have led scientists to dub these islands “the Canadian Galapagos”.

This sailing cruise explores every-thing from the abundant and rich intertidal species and abundant sea life ranging from huge Orca and other whales to sea lions and eagles that make this domain their home. The trip redefined my impression of Canada, of the power of nature and most importantly of the rich heritage and culture of Canada’s Haida Gwaii people. Over the nine days, we experienced first-hand the lush intercoastal life in the Queen Charlotte Islands. We learnt about the Haida culture, a civilization so impressive and a people so noble that it stirs the soul to learn of their demise in the 19th and 20th century as a consequence of European expansion and  of their gradual  cultural recovery  now.

Maple Leaf Adventures has been offering natural and cultural history cruises aboard their century old 92-foot schooner and classic tall ship, the Maple Leaf, since 1986. The ship is made of coastal Douglas fir and cedar with mahogany brightwork. It has 5 huge sails. The company has a reputation as one of Canada’s finest tour operators and is ranked one of “The Best Adventure Travel Companies on Earth” by the editors of National Geographic Adventure, with a perfect score of 100 for customer satisfaction and one of the highest rankings of all 192 companies listed from across the globe. I can attest to the fact that they meet and exceed this standard.

Our excursion began with a ninety minute flight with Pacific Coastal (www.pacificcoastal.com) from Vancouver to Masset B.C. We met the other passengers and our crew of superior sailors and delightful people. The Captain was the thirty-something James Warburton a lifelong resident of the Queen Charlotte Islands. A wine connoisseur, fisherman, naturalist and environmentalist, he gave everyone a sense of comfort and at no point did we ever feel unsafe or unsure of anything while onboard. First Mate Tavish Campbell is a twenty-two year-old sea faring dynamo who has more outdoor adventure experience in his young life than most people I know. One of my greatest memories of the trip is watching Tavish clean 4 large fish he and James caught. It was like watching a maestro perform a concerto…and the fish were great later for dinner!

Photo by Caroline Penn

Our trip Chef was Lila Ruzicka, a who prepared spectacular meals featuring local food traditions and fresh produce along with the best seafood the Pacific West coast has to offer. The food presentation was a dinner highlight. She did this from the kitchen galley that may have been 6 feet in length. The ship Deckhand, Terese Ayre, was also a talented naturalist, environmentalist and host who always made sure we were comfortable, had lots of hot tea and snacks, had our lifejackets and raingear for excursions and pretty well anything else we required.

Our first day was spent on Graham Island and at the Haida Heritage centre at Skidegate. We had a land tour of the rainforest in Naikoon Provincial Park with stops at Tow Hill, Agate Beach and North Beach. The locals have built an impressive wooden pathway for the hike up Tow Hill and once at the top, the vista view of the Queen Charlotte beaches and terrain is breathtaking. The famous cedar trees that I have always read about and have seen in photos were everywhere. It is hard to believe that right up until the early 1990s Canadian lumber companies were going crazy clear-cutting the forests in the region. Former Prime Minister Brian Mulroney finally put a stop to all this by putting the area under federal protection in partnership with the Haida people.

Photo: Caroline Penn

The art of the Haida totem poles is fascinating. Our guide told us about the history of Bill Reid’s Dogfish pole in Skidegate. Reid is probably the most famous Haida Artist and his totem poles are legendary. One of his great works was for the Canadian Embassy in Washington. A stop in the Kaay Llnagaay Haida Heritage Centre was fascinating. It sells many representations of his and other Haida artists’ work and we were fortunate to meet two totem pole artists working on a new pole which had been commissioned for the federal government. Both artists were Bill Reid apprentices.

Our first night was spent at the Alaska Lodge in the Queen Charlotte Islands. It sits on wonderful beach and is teeming with local wildlife such as eagles, ravens and as we are told, bears.

The next morning, we headed to the Bay to board the Maple Leaf. The boat’s interior accommodations are very comfortable and merge modern conveniences and good space design sense with a decor that nods to her Edwardian past. The spacious main cabin is open and airy by day and the kitchen is compact, including the dining area. Shelving on the wall around the table holds the ship’s library and is a pleasant place to sit and read, chat or enjoy a cup of tea.

Our sleeping was below deck and featured large comfortable bunk beds, six-and-a-half feet long, with fluffy duvets, pillows, throws and brass reading lamps. There are walls on two-and-a-half sides and thick, heavy curtains on the remaining sides. There were five other people in similar accommodations feet away from us. There are three small washrooms on the ship which also can be used as showers. This is precision accommodation that was extremely comfortable especially for sleeping as you could lie in your bunk and feel the gentle floating sensation of the ship. I loved it and found it very relaxing as did my daughter!

The Maple Leaf has lots of deck space on which people may choose to sit and watch the coastal scenery, chat with others, steer the ship, or have quiet time alone.

Photo by Caroline Penn

The first evening was casual, each person getting a general comfort level onboard. The ship galley was prepared for our first meal and as he would do each night on the trip, James pulled out a couple of great bottles of BC wine and we toasted our day, our trip, each other and any other positive thing we could think of before delving into one of Lila’s spectacular meals. The 13 of us are squeezed in tight around the galley table and we share stories of our day and of our lives. James shows us the map of where we sailed and where we are headed the next day.

Our  days are spent sailing and going ashore in the inflatable zodiac boats to experience the magic of different habitats and the special life that inhabits each area. The Maple Leaf has two 15-foot Polaris rigid-hull inflatable boats for shore excursions and wildlife viewing. These  zodiacs, take us to some of the most remote beaches for hikes, seabird watching and marine mammal viewing. The Maple Leaf has access to some of the best places along the Queen Charlotte Islands that are rarely seen as most other tour operators are forbidden to go there. A highlight of the trip is zooming over the water in a zodiac to be near a whale pod or to get close to some Northern Seal lions whose average length is about 3 metres and weigh between 450-1,000 kilograms, making them the largest of all eared seals. These seals live on rookeries which are exposed, remote islands where calving and breeding take place. The males are very defensive of these breeding territories so we were careful to not get too close!

Photo by Caroline Penn

A key point of the trip is to stop and learn more  about the Haida culture. We sail to the remote Haida sites of T’aanuu Llnagaay and K’uuna LLnagaay and explore the natural and cultural heritage of Gwaii Haanas. These areas are protected by The Haida Gwaii Watchmen Program.  In the past, Haida Watchmen were posted at strategic positions around a village to raise the alarm in advance of approaching enemy. Watchmen also crowned poles as carved figures protecting the village from evil spirits. Today, from spring until autumn, the Haida Gwaii Watchmen serve as guardians at these sites.

One night we pulled into the Bay that features the famous Hot springs of Haida Gwaii. The Watchmen are laughing as we all take comfort in the hot spring water-better than any spa treatment in any place I’ve been. The temperature is so hot that after ten minutes most of our group hops out and into the extremely refreshing and cold Pacific Bay next to the hot springs.

Later, heading back to the ship in our zodiac, I noticed James speeding off in a zodiac towards another ship in the Bay. He returned moments later with a basket of fresh prawns. He said it was a great trade as we’ll enjoy the prawns and they’ll enjoy the BC wine he just gave them in exchange. We did enjoy those prawns which Lila quickly fried up in garlic and butter  And by the way did I mention the breakfasts aboard the Maple Leaf each day or the end of trip brunch? Well, you should really go and experience it yourself. In all the adventure and comfort travels I have done, nothing even comes close to this trip. It was simply spectacular. I like to think that years from now my daughter will realize what a special adventure we had but I think she already knows it.

www.mapleleafadventures.com

For more beautiful photography by Caroline Penn please see her websitehttp://photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=6606949

The Art of the Weekend Getaway

September 13, 2011 12:14 pm
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As summer days slide into brilliant Fall colors there’s no better time for a cozy weekend getaway. Better still, some of the best Ontario has to offer is right next door. Just hours from Ottawa lie the breathtaking landscapes and quaint country hamlets of Ontario’s Highlands.

Ontario’s Highlands is a new name for a travel region which spans a large part of Eastern Ontario, that includes some of the area that you already know and love, such as Pembroke, Bancroft, Haliburton, Madoc, Smiths Falls, Stirling and Perth. These destinations are perfect getaways for Ottawa residents seeking to shake off city stress. Ontario’s Highlands is also home to the Ottawa Valley which stretches from Ottawa westward to the edge of Ontario’s Algonquin Park. From hiking to canoeing to more urban pursuits such as art gazing, antique shopping and fine dining – Ontario’s Highlands can’t be beat.

Fall is an especially good time to venture out in Ontario’s Highlands – particularly for art lovers. For four weekends from September 10-11 to October 1-2, the Ottawa Valley hosts its annual Rural Ramble. Art studios open up their doors to the public, allowing art buffs to see and speak with artists.

Melissa Marquardt, Marketing Coordinator of the Ottawa Valley Tourist Association, said the Rural Ramble is the Ottawa Valley’s Fall signature event with up to 5,000 tourists attending each year.

Along with the art sampling, the Ramble is “a great way to see the country-side, the beautiful foliage and experience rural living,” Marquardt said.

In partnership with the Rural Ramble, the Madawaska Valley Studio Tour also within the Ottawa Valley, takes place on October 1-2, where visitors can watch 27 top artists forge knives, make handmade soap blow glass, paint, weave and create stain glass and pottery.

But the Fall delights don’t stop there in Ontario’s Highlands. The region includes Lanark County and the nearby by Land O’Lakes area, which also have a lot to offer. While the area’s signature art event takes place over Labour Day weekend there is still much to see and do.

Marie White, Tourism Manager at Lanark County Tourism said Lanark is steeped in artistic tradition. “Our families have been here for generations and different skills have been passed down that are close to our Irish and Scottish heritage.” Artists, Ms. White said, are drawn to the beauty of the area for inspiration. Lanark Country is the Maple Syrup Capital of Ontario and has a high concentration of sugar maples. In the fall, golden sugar maple leaves make a gorgeous contract with rich red maple leaves and white pines.

Other areas of the Ontario’s Highlands region present even more self-guided driving studio tours. In Hastings County, the second largest county in Ontario, you will find the Bancroft and Area Autumn Studio Tour (September 24 and 25 and October 1 and 2.) This studio tour offers the public access to 11 studios from L’Amable through to Lake St. Peter. Established in 1992, the Bancroft tour features ornamental ironwork, fibre arts, wood furniture and carving and leather goods among others.

Hastings County is also home to the Hastings Arts Route (www.artsroute.com), which offers a trail of painting, pottery, jewelry and photography all unique to the area. An example of the delights to be found is jewelry by Kathryn McDonald – who makes stones and shoreline objects enveloped in copper and sterling silver. To help visitors stick to the arts trail, Hastings County has a series of helpful tourist route signs.

Travelling to the western end of Ontario’s Highlands, the Haliburton County Studio Tour also offers a wide selection of original works and crafts.

While in Haliburton, you won’t want to miss the annual ColourFest (www.colourfest.ca) celebration of fall, scheduled for October 1. In addition to being another great event/location to experience local artists, music is also a highlight of the festival. The lineup includes the Simply Befiddled Musical Trio, The Great Busker Show featuring Mark and Gustavo and the award winning Anne Lindsay Quartet, to name a few. Other highlights include a vintage car parade, a scarecrow contest and a Kid’s Colour Splash aptly described as a “gallery art attack on patio.” Another family favourite is the ColourFest Pet Contest which has awards for best kisser, looks most like owner and best smile.

This Fall, add Ontario’s Highlands to your list of getaway destinations. Whether you visit for a day, a weekend, or more, you won’t be disappointed. For more information, please visit www.ontariohighlands.ca/ottawa.

Weird and Wonderful Venice Beach

August 31, 2011 3:09 pm
Venice Beach, California

Attention sand-lovers and sun-worshippers: if beaches are your thing, Southern California is for you! The area boasts hundreds of kilometres of idyllic white sand beaches, and is undoubtedly one of the world’s top destinations for sun, fun, sand, and sea. So when I had an opportunity to visit SoCal recently, there wasn’t a doubt in my mind that I too would soon be singing the praises of the area’s breathtaking coastlines. I travelled the Pacific Coast Highway and was able to visit beaches all the way from Laguna to Malibu.  What I didn’t expect, however, was that my favourite beach in SoCal would in fact have less to do with the surf and sand, and more to do with all things weird and wonderful.

A street performer on the boardwalk

Specifically, the beach I’m referring to is the infamous Venice Beach! A district of Los Angeles, and just a stones-throw away from downtown, Venice was founded by developer Abbott Kinney in 1905. He intended to create an oceanfront resort-town like its namesake in Italy. If Kinney could see Venice Beach today he would likely turn over in his grave. This is the only place, perhaps in the world where one can see a lady ‘of age’ in a hot pink thong, a muscle-man with arms bulging like they’re about to burst, or a teenager serenading tourists in the middle of the street on a baby grand piano. But that’s all part of the eclectic and electric charm of the Venice Beach Boardwalk.
Walking down the boardwalk of Venice beach, one can be sure of a few things: dodging roller bladers, admiring the eclectic individuals that dot the scene and being bombarded with funny, wonderful, and even some weird sights and experiences. The boardwalk is always filled with buskers (ranging from incredibly talented to incredibly bizarre), which undoubtedly contributed to the overall carnival atmosphere.  Adding to that, the scents of sunscreen, sweat, grease, and the salty ocean air, will leave anyone’s senses truly overwhelmed. 

The colourful boardwalk of Venice Beach

Venice Beach has always been a haven for creative types — ranging from early Beat Generation artists to bohemians to graffiti artists. Today, the area still holds its reputation as a community for artists. It has attracted a broad range of talent, from the drifters and hopefuls to well-known artists such as Jim Morrison of the Doors. At times, however, the word ‘art’ has to be redefined at one’s own discretion – for example, the man freestyle rapping off key about ATM bank machines…perhaps a little questionable!

Of course a trip to Venice Beach would not be complete without a visit to the infamous Muscle Beach. The meatheads’ playground is an inclosed area along the boardwalk, where spectators can watch weightlifting, gymnastics, and acrobatics in a public show of strengths. Muscle Beach has been frequented by ex-governor Arnold Schwarzenegger, Dave Draper, Danny Trejo, and other notable celebrities.

Bodybuilding equipment at Muscle Beach

If the craziness of the boardwalk gets to your head, fear not. Venice also boasts a unique shopping and dining street, named after Mr. Abbot Kinney himself. Unlike so many other areas in Southern California (especially Los Angeles), Abbot Kinney hasn’t been taken over by chains or big box stores. The authentic neighbourhood is a go-to hipster hangout, lined with trendy boutiques, unique restaurants, and sidewalk cafes. This trendy and colourful area offers a must-see experience off the beaten path, while straying away from the wacky boardwalk.

But to truly understand the character and vibe of Venice Beach, it must be experienced first hand! Bring a camera, an open mind, a most importantly, a sense of humour. Whether you join the ‘Arnolds’ at Muscle Beach, watch (or if you dare, join) the stunt rollerbladers/skateboarders, explore Abbot Kinney, or simply stroll the boardwalk, Venice Beach will be a truly unforgettable experience.

As a sign on the beach so aptly puts it: ‘Keep It Weird’, and boy… do they ever!

Italy’s Best-Kept Secret

August 17, 2011 12:19 pm
Church of San Vitale

I remember the morning when I woke up to a ceiling with frescos and a crystal chandelier. I was lying alone in a king sized bed in suite of Hotel Vittoria, in Faenza, Italy, where as the legend goes, the great Italian poet Giosuè Carducci used to lodge. So this is Italy, I thought and laid back down again, overwhelmed by the decadence of it all.

Faithful to the best kind of stereo-types, Italy was full of enthusiastic people, beautiful architecture, amazing wine and superb espresso. But our journey was to take us deep into the gastronomical soul of Italy. Our journey took us through the rural towns of northern Italy through a region called Emilia-Romagna, situated between the Adriatic sea and the foothills of the Italian alps. I’m convinced that Emilia-Romagna is Italy’s best-kept (and maybe only) secret.

Our first stop was the Polesine Parmense farm shop in Parma, Italy, where meat is the main event. I have never seen cold cuts from Parma on a menu in Canada and now that I’ve tasted its version of proscuitto and salame and the prized culatello, I’m disappointed that it is not more readily available. These cold cuts are among the best in the world – savory tastes heightened by complementary flavors of spice and pepper. After centuries of perfecting the technique, the farm counts Prince Charles and fashion head Georgio Armani as some of its many culatello patrons.

Since each kilo of culatello (taken from the inner leg of the pig and cured for approximately 20 months), is worth 16 euro, the basement full of pork was worth around two million euros. Its hefty price tag now betrays its origins as peasant food during Roman and medieval times. The fermented meat was able to last longer, key to a poor family’s survival.

After visiting the culatello shop we stopped at Roberto and Giovanni Cavalli’s balsamic vinegar factory. Cavalli’s family had begun making the vinegar as a hobby, using old wine barrels that date back to the 1800’s. Unlike wine, which has to ferment at a constant temperature, balsamic vinegar is perfected by 20 years exposure to fluctuating temperatures. After doing a tasting of the sweet, thick, dark caramel-coloured vinegar, I predicted that any future balsamic vinegar experience in Canada will always come short — if only because recreating the experience would be so costly: a bottle of 100 ml goes for $300-400 dollars US. If you’re curious, the first step to spotting a bona fide bottle of balsamic vinegar is the traditionelle label, which means the vinegar is aged well and adheres to the complicated fermentation process that Cavalli has perfected.

With its offerings of local wine, cheese, meat and produce, the Emilia-Romagna province is a living example of the of the slow food movement, a “non-profit, eco-gastronomic member-supported organization that was founded in 1986 to counteract fast food and fast life, the disappearance of local food traditions and people’s dwindling interest in the food they eat, where it comes from, how it tastes and how our food choices affect the rest of the world.” The movement was in part a reaction to McDonald’s opening near the Spanish steps in Rome. Capitalizing on the anti-consumer, anti-capitalist sentiment Italian Carlo Petrini officially launched the organization three years later, which now boasts over 100,000 members.

Our tour led us through an area and a lifestyle which saw food in a web of interconnected relationships. One of these relationships was with the land, another was with the farmer, another was with the person who was preparing your meal, and another was who you were enjoying your meal with. The slow food movement’s name literally parallels with the eating habits of Italians. All our lunches and dinners took over an hour to consume, some over two and a half hours. In every restaurant, all the other diners were eating at the same pace and people trickled out of the restaurant around midnight. There was a clear integration of consumption with the surrounding environment. Here, in the land of granola bar breakfasts and TV dinners, we seem to have lost that connection to our food and land.

How people dress seems to be with as much pride and flair as their food. When I first arrived, it seemed as though everyone was dressed as a movie star. Actually, that’s not true, they dress classier than movie stars. That I didn’t bring a pair of stilettos was my one regret of the trip. I was mortified that ninety-year-old grandmas were sporting sexier footwear than me.

The churches of Emilia-Romagna, inspired wonder and awe – if slightly contaminated by Dan Brown-esque conspiracies (I caught myself looking for Rose Lines and Mary Magdalene on more than one occasion). What I didn’t expect to encounter was the Byzantine mosaic masterpiece of the Church of San Vitale in Ravenna. Ravenna was the capital city of the Western Roman Empire in during the 4th century AD. The Church was finished around 600 AD and was preserved by the Benedictine monks and is the only remaining church from the Emperor Justantine to survive. The glittering, golden ceilings of San Vitale depict something very different than the frescos from the medieval ages and the Renaissance. The scenes on the walls were of the pre-Christ and focused on the Emperor’s court and the glories of nature. For example, there are over eighty species of birds featured in the mosaic. Legend has it that Gustav Van Klimt studied the cathedral and borrowed the luminescent shapes and colours for his painting The Kiss.

I didn’t fall in love with Italy until the day when we biked from Faenza to Bisighella, a medieval town with a castle perched on the top of three hills. The ride, took the panoramic route from Faenza through the foothills of the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apeninne. It was biking through the lush green farmland, dotted with old castles and farmhouses, that I was struck by historic legacy of the land and overcome by the realization that I was actually, truly there in the hotspot of Western civilization. It was unquestionably the best cycle ride in my life. Biking in Italy is to driving in America. On this trip it also served as my only defence from gaining twenty pounds.

We had many rides but our last bike jaunt was a nauseating shuttle-ride through the route of the Nove Colli, one of the most famous one-day “gran fondi” race or ride in Italy. It took place on May 23, and follows a 210 km route from the harbour of Cesenatico, up and down nine hills, and then back to a finish line on the seafront, which is also the finish line of the granddaddy of Italian bike races, the Giro d’Italia.

After the bike interlude, our tour returned its focus on gastronomy and we were taken to Forlimpopoli. The town is the birthplace of Pellegrino Artusi, a writer on gastronomy who is considered the “father” of Italian cooking. Born in 1820, he traveled the countryside of Italy and collected recipes and methods of cooking, food conservation and food preparation. The recipes were cooked by Marietta, his invaluable right-hand woman, and published in his 1891 bestselling book Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well.

In Forlimopoli, we went to Artusi’s birthplace, the Casa Artusi, which is now a museum and culinary centre. We were taken upstairs to the kitchen and shown how to make piadina, a typical flat bread unique to the coast regions of Emilia Romagna and the Republic of San Marino. After our piadianas, we had a memorable stop at Dozza, a hilltop town which houses the wine museum Enocteca Regionale dell’Emilia Romagna in the 14th century castle in the center of town. Actually, memorable is the wrong word, orgasmic is a better fit. Gian Alfonso Roda, the president of the Emilia Eomagna regional wine museum, had us taste a variety of wines including frizzante and regianno rosso. The last wine, a dessert wine known as passito, was described by Gian as a “meditation” to be enjoyed over a book. Or, as we did, with the traditionelle balsamic vinegar and aged parmesan cheese. If you’re wondering what happened when these three ingredients were combined, I assure you, it was nothing short of a taste-gasm. As people reluctantly left the room I hung back hoping to lick the last of the balsamic vinegar off the plate.

In the best-selling memoir Eat, Pray, Love, Elizabeth Gilbert makes a trip through Italy to obsessively eat her way to recovery from her divorce, what her friend calls a “No Carb Left Behind” tour.  She writes, “I am doing rude things to my body in Italy, taking in such ghastly amounts of cheese and pasta and bread and wine and chocolate and pizza dough…I’m not exercising, I’m not eating enough fibre, I’m not taking any vitamins.”

I believe that by gorging, she missed the point. For me, Italy was about enjoying what you had, finding the community in everything you do and cultivating the resources around you with pride. It wasn’t the quantity, but the quality that I’ll remember Emilia-Romagna by.

As Artusi writes, “I should not like my interest in gastronomy to give me the reputation of a gourmand or glutton. I object to such dishonourable imputation, for I am neither. I love the good and the beautiful wherever I find them, and hate to see anyone squander, as they say, God’s bounty. Amen.”

 

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One of the best regional wine is the Lambrusco, a sparkling red that only locals and visitor are treated to as it is made for consumption within the year.

Living La Vida Local

July 29, 2011 11:05 am
Cuba -0045

Unlike the typical Cuban getaway – in mid-winter complete with package tour and all you can eat buffet, I decided to see Cuba in reverse. That is, in full early July heat and staying at the opposite of a resort – at a Cuban home complete with grandma, mum, adult kids and babies – out in the Havana suburbs. It proved to be unforgettable “auténtica experiencia” – and one I would not willingly exchange for the pre-packaged kind.  It’s not often after all, that you get to meet an 85 year old Cuban grandma who spied for Castro during the Revolution, have a Spanish speaking guide or to walk the streets of Havana at 4am with a bunch of newly made Cuban friends. Then there was learning how to hail cabs local style, eating at unknown hole in the wall restaurants and learning how to push your way into a line up for a hot Latin jazz band a la Cubana. It was a week of living la vida local – Cuban crazy, fun, hot and humid – and not for the faint at heart.

Photos by Juan Carlos Gort-Bastardo

For starters, the first thing you discover about Havana is that it well, isn’t Ottawa. While in Ottawa public servants are sensibly tucked into bed recouping from a day pounding the keyboards in an air conditioned office, young Cubans are out all day and night – and they are partying, hard. As my Air Canada flight landed into Havana Airport almost three hours late – turning  a scheduled 9:33pm landing into an after midnight touch down, I was concerned my host family would be sound asleep oblivious to my knocks on the door. Worse still, my cab driver was lost. I need not have worried. My arrival at 1am left my Cuban hosts unfazed and slightly puzzled by my apologies. Eighty five year old Grandma Carmen was on the balcony enjoying a well earned rum along with her daughter Esperanza. In relaxed Cuban style, they were warm and welcoming as I explained in broken Spanish the flight delay and the lost cab driver.

Photos by Juan Carlos Gort-Bastardo

I was offered rum, snacks (dried plantain and fresh mango) and shown my digs. My room did not disappoint. The  room was at the far end of a sprawling, grand-looking Spanish-Cuban style house, complete with 12 foot ceiling, photos of Castro and gorgeous antique furniture. The room was large, with louvered wooden slat screens that opened out into a small garden and a large private luxury bathroom. At $40 Cuban pesos a night with a huge breakfast of fresh, garden picked pawpaw, mango, soursop, toast, omelette, cheese, honeydew melon jam and best of all, thick Cuban style coffee  – it was a bargain. But the best was yet to come – a one week whirlwind tour of Havana with a local – Carmen’s 31 year old grandson Juan-Carlos – who doubled as interpreter, tour guide and photographer, and who has lived in Havana all his life.

Photos by Juan Carlos Gort-Bastardo

My week of living La Vida Local started next morning, after six hours of light sleep at the untimely hour of 8am in the morning.

 

Tale of Two Cities…Part Two: Bratislava

July 18, 2011 9:00 am
Streets of Old Town Bratislava

In the middle of Europe lies a very small but proud country, with a small but lovely capital city. The country that I speak of is Slovakia and it’s lovely capital – Bratislava. Bratislava is in part, a world divided, with half its foot in the past and the other half brightly in the future, architecturally and aesthetically speaking at least. The most obvious divide exists with the Danube River, which flows through the center of the city and separates the old town from the Communist-built Petrzalka, perhaps equally as interesting but not as aesthetically pleasing as its older counterpart. There is so much history here, that it is a wonder how it all fits into a city with a population of barely 500,000. Bratislava’s geographic location couldn’t be more beautiful, as the city is nestled between the Carpathian mountains and the Danube river. But aside form its history and location, Bratislava is also a city buzzing with  social life, which becomes obvious when one enters any of the many restaurants, trendy cafes and bars, modern shopping centers or galleries alike.

Streets of Old Town Bratislava

Walking through History

The old part of Bratislava is unique: it survived over 40 years of Communist rule, which left the city’s historical buildings neglected and shabby. After the fall, however, large reconstruction projects took place and most of the buildings were returned to their original grandeur. One just needs to walk through the many alleyways and cobble-stone streets of St. Michael’s Gate in order to appreciate the history of the space. It also doesn’t hurt that many of the old buildings have been turned into small cafes, shops, restaurants and bars, which provide both a charming and distinct atmosphere to enjoy a meal or drink. While artists and crafts people set-up shop in various stands throughout the old town, underground wine cellars dot the city and provide a place where one can sneak off and take a sample of wine at virtually any time of the day. Verne cafe, which is located right across the Carleton Hotel and the US Embassy, is one such locale that features authentic Slovak cuisine, keg house wine (“sudove vino”) and an eclectic collection of furniture. In the summer, virtually all restaurants and cafes have outdoor patios, but I am not talking about plastic lawn furniture, it’s white table cloths or carved wooden pub tables and benches for a truly authentic European dining/drinking atmosphere. The Slovak Pub, on Obchodna Street, offers exactly this kind of authentic Slovak eating experience. Complete with historical Slovak farming equipment on display and various other traditional paraphernalia along with organic Slovak food fare and drinks, this place is a must for any tourist keen on trying Slovak food made Bratislava-style.

Old Town

Main Square

If history isn’t your thing, then Eurovea is sure to please. The 2 year old modern construction features funky cafes, trendy restaurants and a large shopping center, all located scenically on the edge of the Danube. The lawns of most establishments here even include large bean-bag seating, comfortable for even the pickiest of guests.  Many locals and tourists alike, congregate here for  food, drinks, shopping and sun – a perfect way to spend a lazy summer afternoon or weekend.

Eurovea

Across the Danube lies Petrzalka, the Communist-built concrete jungle. Although seemingly vast and uniform, even this part of town has its hidden gems and charm. For the shopper in you, there is Aupark – a large shopping center featuring H&M, ZARA, New Yorker etc. Plus a plethora of restaurants, some Slovak, some fusion. It is also a strong reminder of what the regime destroyed, created and left behind. A constant reminder of the Communist functionalist aesthetic.

Petrzalka and the Bratislava Castle

However, one cannot leave this city without visiting Bratislava’s emblem: the Bratislava Castle. Part restaurant, part museum this magnificent structure overlooks the entire city, and gives any visitor an appreciation of the small-in-size but rich-in-culture capital.

Unique Bratislava

A Tale of Two Cities…Part 1: Berlin

July 8, 2011 10:44 am
Graffiti Park

A city formerly divided, both figuratively and literally, by a giant concrete wall now adorned with art and graffiti from all over the globe…A city formerly divided by clashing political ideologies and philosophies…but no longer. Today Berlin is a city united both by its past and its present. The wall now stands only as a symbol of the past – of what has been and what no longer is – a constant reminder of both Berlin and Germany’s tumultuous history. But this is not a story of that history, rather this is a story of the present, a tale of the vibrant, creative and interesting city that is Berlin.

Berlin streets, nooks and crannies. Photo by Katarina Kuruc.

Walking through the side streets and main streets of Berlin, it is easy to see why this city has become a haven for artists, the not-so underground party-goers, intellectuals and tourists alike. This is because walking down any random street is like walking through a pop art exhibit, complete with bumping base undertones emanating from almost every corner and neon-clothed partyers celebrating to the wee hours of the morning all the while being surrounded by a plethora of cafes, restaurants, museums and galleries.

First stop on anyone’s travel planner in Berlin should be the infamous Berlin Wall (of course!) Although the city is littered with its remains, the main section of the wall remains intact in the area of Ostkreutz-a vibrant, formerly East German area of the city complete with cafes, bars and 48-hour party venues. The walk along the wall is long, but never boring. As aforementioned, the wall has been preserved with art from local and global artists alike. Think: giant outdoor pop art exhibit with a political history. While exploring this section of the city, however, one cannot ignore all the other street art and graffiti that dots the Berlin landscape. Virtually no corner or wall has been left untouched, particularly in one graffiti park I personally managed to stumble upon in the area of  Warshauerstrasse. But if street style isn’t your style and the history of the city is of great interest, then the GDR Museum is the place to go. Complete with actual objects from the former Communist regime, including a Trabant car, this interactive exhibit gives a very good depiction of what life under the Communist regime was really like. The museum is also located near Museum Island, that features some of Berlin’s most famous historical museums-it’s your one-stop-shop for anything ancient and ornate.Yet another amazing outdoor exhibit is the newly reconstructed Topography of Terror, which documents the rise and fall of the Nazi Regime. Not for the faint of heart, but something everyone should see in order to remember the horrors that befell people during the Nazi reign.

 

Berlin Wall. Photo by: Katarina Kuruc

Aside from graffiti, art, and history Berlin also features a wealth of amazing restaurants. Rosenthaller Bar and Grill in Rosenthaller Platz offers personal pizzas starting at a mere 3.90EU (trust me in Europe this is a steal!) along with other grilled and baked goodies. As a result of the city’s large Turkish population, shawarma stands can be found virtually everywhere along with beer gardens and cafes that feature both German as well as international cuisine. Germany is famous for its beer and schnitzel (a breaded and fried pork cutlet) and many of the restaurants in Berlin clearly reflect this national culinary tradition. Surprisingly, however, Asian food also seems to be popular. Transit restaurant, which features a lower priced but equally delicious fusion menu is sure to satisfy any thai/vietnamese craving, also located in Rosenthaller Platz, a trendy area with shops, cafes, bars, hotels and hostels.

 

Transit Fusion Restaurant. Photo by: Katarina Kuruc

On Sundays, any vintage lover simply cannot miss the Mauerpark flea market, which features everything from food to vintage furniture, clothes and other random, yet charming, nick-nacks. Aside from all the vintage commodities another bonus of Mauerpark is the traditional  “Crazy Karaoke” which happens near the market every Sunday, weather permitting. Apperantly a local Berliner started this tradition and it has lasted ever since. A karaoke machine is set-up in front of colleseum-style seating and those brave enough can sign up and wail their favourite songs. A perfect way to spend a Sunday in the city.

 

Mauerpark Flea Market. Photo by: Katarina Kuruc

As mentioned, Berlin is a city of art. Photography, painting, sculpture, you name it and it has got it! One gallery especially worth mentioning that combines photography with biography is the Helmut Newton Foundation, which features the life and work of the Berlin-born fashion photographer. The space is filled with most of Helmut Newton’s famous photographs, movies, scrapbooks and a replica of his home in Monaco. The observer can stroll through Mr. Newton’s famous collection of polaroids, get a glimpse of his most prized possessions and watch several of his movies. A “must” for any fan of photography, fashion or art.

 

Helmut Newton's Monaco home. Photo by: Katarina Kuruc

An this brings an end to the first installment of the “Tale of Two Cities”. Stay tuned for the second part which will feature another post-Communist city: Bratislava.

The Coolest Capital in Europe and the German Riviera

May 30, 2011 11:41 am
Germany4

The Germans do it all and have it all. Exceptional in every way, it is no surprise that Germany continues to hold the annual record as one of the world’s most visited countries. In fact, it is one of the most educated and economically successful countries in the world. It has a powerhouse culture driven by a vibrant film, music and arts scene whose inspiration is driven by the historic legacy of its forefathers. Think of some of the most accomplished and popular artists of all time like Johann Sebastian Bach, Ludwig van Beethoven, Franz Schubert, Johannes Brahms, Richard Wagner and of course the German born Austrian composer Mozart.

Germany today is a mixture of beautiful landscapes, picturesque villages, quaint castles, sandy shore-lines and serene small town life crossed with an uber post modern, successful and thriving city society. It is rich in culture, wealth and opportunity.

My son and I arrived in Berlin after a very comfortable flight on Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com). We took a bus to the city centre to the historic Friedrichstasse, one of the most famous streets in Europe. With its array of cafés and shops, it is the heartbeat of Berlin and on this Saturday morning Berliners were out in droves shopping and sitting out in the pleasant outdoor cafés. We made a pit stop at one of the many German sausage and French fry kiosks that are scattered throughout the city. You can have a hot lunch and a beer for less than ten dollars. We then checked into the Melia Berlin 
(www.meliaberlin.com) a magnificent boutique hotel next the Spree River and central to the key attractions in Berlin. (Great restaurants, very comfortable and delicious breakfasts.)

Originally the capital for Prussia, Berlin has served as a cultural centre for hundreds of years. After much of the city and its population were destroyed in the 17th century’s Thirty Years War, Frederick William, the King of Prussia instituted a policy of religious freedom that resulted in the city attracting new people from all over Europe. It quickly established itself as a progressive, cosmopolitan and free city. However, WWI and the subsequent seizure of power by the National Socialists in 1933 would forever change Berlin. At the end of World War II, Berlin was divided with the Russian Communists controlling a repressed East Berlin and the Allies controlling a free West Berlin. In 1961, the infamous Berlin Wall was constructed, physically separating the German city into two parts. Through the city, you can follow the trail of where the Berlin Wall once stood and we followed it to Checkpoint Charlie, one of the Berlin’s most popular attractions. Opened in 1962, shortly after the Berlin Wall was built, Checkpoint Charlie was the formal border access point for people to cross from East Berlin to West Berlin and vice versa. The nearby museum traces the history of a then divided Germany and portrays the tensions of the Cold War between the major world powers. Other related themes include the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989.

Be sure to check out the Reichstag (www.bundestag.de) whose interior was completely gutted and reconstructed in the 1990s. The new Reichstag retains its historic style but embraces the future with a postmodern glass dome that was erected on the roof as a gesture to the original 1894 cupola. This glass dome provides an impressive view over the city, especially at night. The German Parliament or Bundestag officially convened there for the first time on April 19, 1999, moving back from the Cold War capital of Bonn. The Reichstag is now the most visited attraction in Berlin. Directly across from it is the German Chancellery or Bundeskanzleramt (www.bundeskanzleramt.de) which is also a postmodern style building.

The next day, we headed to the museums section of Berlin in the centre of the city. History junkies will not be disappointed. The German Historical Museum has a permanent exhibition that features Germany’s two thousand year history. We were fortunate enough to be in Berlin for the opening weekend of a ground-breaking exhibition about Adolf Hitler. This exhibit was the first time since World War II that a major museum has explored the relationship between the Hitler and the German nation. Hitler and the Germans: Nation and Crime was an exceptional look at how Hitler managed to both charm and horrify a nation. The exhibit was packed as Berliners tried to come to an understanding of how they were long ago seduced by National Socialism. It is an extraordinary exhibit.

Shopping is another popular pastime in Berlin. Potsdamer Platz is a great centre with cafés and restaurants. Friedrichstrasse is a wonderful walking boulevard featuring the world’s most acclaimed international designers as well as upscale art galleries, cafés, delicatessens and shops.

There are phenomenal restaurants in Berlin. Local neighbourhood restaurants are best and offer meals for under $25.00 with beer, dessert and coffee. If you want to cover more of the city in a day then take the Berlin Wall Bike Tour (www.berlinonbike.de) or you can also see the city by boat. Berlin has an enormous system of waterways and is home to more bridges than Venice.

The next day we headed for Rostock, the 800 year old hanseatic port city on the Baltic coast, a two and half hour drive north. Germany is famous for its Autobahn and recently celebrated  the invention of the first automobile by Carl Benz 125 years ago. I was at first exhilarated to be driving 180km per hour (no speed limit) but noticed that many cars were still passing me by. After the initial thrill, I settled in at 120 km per hour. As we passed the fertile plains, bountiful farmlands, and old growth forests of the German countryside, the old merged with the new as the scattering of huge modern windmills jutted across the countryside showcasing German ingenuity and innovation at its best. The windmills provide clean energy to most of the region. (German is a world leader in clean and green alternative energy.)  Rostock retains medieval charm mixed with a cosmopolitan feel. Its historical town centre features typical German brick architecture and a small town feeling that disguises its larger stature as a port, commerce, trade and university centre.

We checked into the cozy Steigenberger Hotel Sonne (www.die-kleine-sonne.de). We headed to the  harbour brewery aside the port for dinner at the Zum alter Fritz  (www.alter-fritz.de).

The Baltic Coast region of Germany is outstanding and incredibly beautiful. Less than three hours north of Berlin, the region is a magnet for European tourists who come to swim in the turquoise and cobalt sea and sun on the pure white sand dunes that roll along the peaceful shore.

The pace of life seems to slow down in the Mecklenburg-Vorpommern region. We stopped for a morning in Warnemunde, where the Warnnow River flows into the Baltic Sea. Once a small but very important seaside fishing village, the town is now more of a tourist destination thanks to its beauty. Twenty minutes away is the spa resort of Bad Doberan, a small town steeped in tradition that lies just off the Baltic coast surrounded by lush beechwood forests.

The 33rd G8 summit took place at Kempinski Grand Hotel in Heiligendamm in 2007 with good reason. It is stunning. Heiligendamm remains Germany’s most elegant seaside resort.

In 1823, the first race track on the European continent – located between Heiligendamm and Doberan – opened, thus becoming the cradle of German horse racing. Then, in 1862, a narrow-gauge railway was built, connecting Doberan with Heiligendamm. In 1910, the track was extended as far as Kühlungsborn and a steam-driven train still runs along it today. The high nobility of Europe, even the Tsar’s family itself, spent the summer holidays here. After the Second World War, the buildings in Heiligendamm were used as a sanatorium and for convalescence. Then, in 1996, a private consortium acquired the historical buildings of Heiligendamm, along with 500 hectares of land and after three years of careful reconstruction, the Grand Hotel Heiligendamm was opened on 1 June 2003, ringing in the rebirth of Germany’s oldest, grandest and most exclusive seaside health resort.

We checked into the centrally located Hotel Prinzenpalais (www.prinzen-palais.de) in Bad Doberan, 4-star hotel housed in a neo-classical building built in 1821. With full modern amenities, it also has a sauna and Jacuzzi and a remarkable restaurant (which serves the most impressive breakfast buffet.) Bad Doberan is a quaint town with nice cafés and walking paths. Be sure to visit the historic “Bad Doberaner Munster www.muenster-doberan.de, a 14th century Cistercian abbey (Cathedral) built in a brick gothic pattern and rich with medieval furnishings.

Golfers will love the Wittenbeck Golf Course which (www.golf-und-meer.de) sits atop a hillside that looks out to the Baltic Sea. Spectacular.

Next up was the Baltic Resort town of Kühlungsborn and an overnight stay at the Hotel Polar Stern (www.polar-stern.com). Located next to the beach the Hotel Polar Stern sits at the centre of what many are calling the new “German Riviera”. Albrecht and Dagmar Kurbjuhn, the proprietors of the Polar Stern came to Kühlungsborn, the region’s largest seaside resort, in the early 1990s shortly after reunification. They fell in love with the relaxing Baltic Sea atmosphere, the white sandy beaches, wooden piers, pine-tree forests and warm summer temperatures. They had a leap of faith and purchased the Hotel Polar-Stern, a 100-year-old “spa town” type building that required extensive care and renovation. They never looked back. Today the Polar Stern is one of the most hospitable and charming hotels along the coast.

The Kühlungsborn marina is filled with schooners and small ships. We visited a tall ship while we were there. Behind the marina is a beautiful forest area where you can zip line. (www.kletterwald-küehlungsborn.de) Kühlungsborn is a gem.

The Mecklenburg-Vorpommern region is also famous for its lakes and beautiful countryside. The next day we drove around the countryside and along the coast to the beaches of Darss and then visited the island of Rugen with its Dover-like white cliffs. We also stopped at the Ozeaneum (www.Ozeaneum.de) in Stralsund which won the “European Museum of the Year Award” in 2010. To end our trip we drove across the Rugendamm Bridge that connects Rugen to the mainland. Rugen is Germany’s largest island, an archipelago of 30 smaller islands and peninsulas in the Baltic Sea. The area hosts a diverse group of seaside resorts, fishing villages, sandy beaches, and tree-lined avenues, lighthouses and lakes and is a vacation paradise. It is home to Jasmund National Park known for its famous white chalk like cliffs that rise majestically out of the turquoise green Baltic Sea. I’ve now been to the French Riviera, the Mayan Riviera and the German Riviera. My son asked me which one I preferred. It was a no brainer.

Panama Wow! The New RIU Plaza Hotel

January 6, 2011 1:12 pm
Panama

Panama is derived from an old Indian word meaning “lots of fish and butterflies.” It has one of the world’s most spectacular ecosystems and jungles but less than an hour away, there is the vibrant urban life in Panama City. America spoils back to Spain.

Canal de Panama

The Panama Canal

I have always been fascinated by the stories of the Panama Canal (www.pancanal.com) which many consider to be one of the most important feats of engineering in history. The narrative is almost too fantastic to believe and dates back to the 16th century. Spanish conquerors were keen to ship the riches of Peru, Ecuador and other South and Central America spoils back to Spain. The idea was preposterous. Join the Atlantic to the Pacific by means of a gigantic swath cut thought the jungle? But the building of such a canal would shorten distances enabling new, faster commerce routes to be opened up. In 1524, the Spanish presented a plan to Charles V to build a canal that would cut three months of the journey to ship gold back to Spain. It was believed that the savings on this alone would justify such an enterprise and a working plan for a canal was drawn up in 1529. However, subsequent wars in Europe put the project on permanent hold. By the early 19th century, a German scientist named Alexander von Humboldt had revived interest in the project and in 1819 the Spanish government formally authorized the construction of a canal and the creation of a company to build it. The discovery of gold in California in 1848 and the rush of would-be miners stimulated America’s interest in digging the canal. After numerous stops and starts, by 1880 a Frenchman named Ferdinand Marie de Lesseps, the builder of the Suez Canal, organized a company to build the Panama Canal but by 1899, his attempt had failed due to disease-carrying mosquitoes and the inadequacy of machinery. The construction of the canal was restarted by the Americans in 1904. The Americans had a perpetual lease on a 10-mile strip beginning in 1913 in exchange for an annual cash payment of $250,000 but in 1999, the Panama Canal was ceded back to the Panamanian people. It now serves as a key economic driver in the country and is currently undergoing an expansion that will double its capacity while providing jobs and significant economic opportunities for Panama. When you visit the Panama Canal, be sure to stop at the museum in the visitor’s centre or visit the Interoceanic Canal Museum www.panama-museums.com in Panama City. After watching some of the world’s biggest ships pass through the canal, drop by for lunch at the onsite Miraflores Restaurant.

Hotel RIU Plaza Panama

If you visit Panama City for business or pleasure, you will be guaranteed a wonderful experience at the Hotel Riu Plaza Panama (www.riu.com). The international RIU chain was founded by the Riu family in 1953 as a small holiday firm and is still owned by the family’s third generation. The company specializes in sun and sand holiday resorts and 50 per cent of its establishments offer RIU’s acclaimed all-inclusive formula. Today, RIU has 107 properties and 42,000 rooms globally serving over 3 million guests each year and they have won just about every major hotel hospitality award possible by following their mission statement, “We’re all about you.” This is the first of RIU Resorts new city hotels that will cater to business and leisure travelers. The Plaza is situated very close to the very best the city has to offer in culture and entertainment. The hotel has 645 comfortable and spacious rooms with desks, free wireless ADSL, flat screen TVs and state-of-the-art bathroom fittings. Many of the rooms have breathtaking views of the city. Other facilities include a gym, a spa & wellness centre and an open-air pool with a Jacuzzi.  For business travelers and event organizers, the hotel has 21 conference rooms, with free wireless connection and a maximum capacity of 1300 persons.

RIU Panama Plaza

The RIU Plaza’s world class restaurants offer sophisticated decor and great food: fusion cuisine in the Tastes Restaurant, as well as a Sushi Lounge, the Arts Restaurant, the Studio 50 and the Ibiza Lounge (situated beside an open-air swimming pool). The Chefs at the Riu Restaurants have been recruited from the best restaurants in Europe and North America and their meals are a gastronomic experience that is artful in presentation and delicious.

Panama City is a thriving, culturally diverse, entrepreneurial and strategic business centre. Spaniards, Mestizos and indigenous peoples coexist alongside Indian, Chinese and Arab communities, many of whom first settled in the country as migrant workers to help build the Panama Canal. The global recession missed this country and the city has a construction boom trying to keep up with the surging economy. Much of the skyline is covered in newly built business towers and condos which reflect the Panama City’s growing influence as one of the most valued destinations in Latin America. Five star hotels, museums, bars and restaurants attract business people and tourists alike.

The New Town section of Panama City has attracted thousands of investors and condo buyers but  beyond the new steel and glass towers, is a 2 km tree-lined avenue Calzada de Amador. Panamanians love walking along this urban pathway where you can view the skyscrapers and modern growth of New Town and then turn and look across the bay and see the picturesque Old Town.

Old Town is the historic centre of Panama City which in recent years, has actually undergone a remarkable renaissance. The colonial buildings have been renovated and the streets, which were formerly squalid, have been revived with new businesses, homes, galleries, restaurants, shops and boutique hotels.

The heart of Old Town is the Plaza de la Independencia. It was here that the declaration of independence was read out in 1903. It is both easy and pleasant to lose oneself here and soak up the sun and the atmosphere of this district that combines colonial elegance with Latin flare and modern amenities. Panamanians are religious people and the Catholic Church still plays a vital role in the daily lives and traditions of its people. In the church of San José you will find one of the country’s treasures – the magnificent Altar de Oro, or Golden Altar. In 1671, when the pirate Henry Morgan wrecked havoc in the city, a priest managed to save this Baroque masterpiece from the pillaging. At the southern end is Plaza de Francia, dedicated to the role of the French in the construction of the Panama Canal. It is surrounded by the Paseo de las Bóvedas, which was conceived to protect the old town. From here you can enjoy beautiful views of part of the Old Town and the enormous ships waiting to enter the canal. The Presidential Palace is one of the most beautiful, best-preserved buildings in this area. Its magnificent state of conservation is no coincidence as it currently houses the Panamanian heads of state.

The Embera Village of Parara Puru

The highlight of the trip for me was a visit to the Embera village of Parara Puru. The Embera Indians are native to Panama, and the Embera village is one of three Indian villages in Panama that still exists where the natives live their lives as they did hundreds of years ago.

On our way by canoe to the Embera Indian village of Parara Puru.

On our way by canoe to the Embera Indian village of Parara Puru.

The Parara Puru village is about 2 hours from Panama City in a remote area that requires a one hour canoe ride up the Charges River. The surrounding jungle is full of tropical birds and wildlife unique to the area. Panama has the most biodiversity of any Central American country. Deer, numerous monkey species, tapirs, sloths, armadillos, anteaters, peccary, coatimundis, and several cat species, including the elusive jaguar, inhabit this terrain. Among the reptiles are crocodiles as well as a variety of lizards, frogs and turtles. The area’s snakes, like the giant boa, are relatively harmless, but an encounter with a coral, bushmaster or fer-de-lance can be deadly. We passed some spectacular waterfalls and on a suggestion from the Embera guide went for a swim to take a break from the heat.

The Embera people paint their bodies with juices from the jaguar fruit which also serves as a mosquito and insect repellent.  Beyond the steep embankment to their village was a main hut that serves as a gathering spot for the village. The living huts are raised on stilts from four to 6 feet off the ground to keep out insects, snakes and small animals. After looking at local crafts and jungle-made jewelry, we were hosted by the village chief to a lunch of fried lake tilapia served in plantane leaves. While we ate, the Embera performed several traditional dances. It was a wonderful experience and needless to say I found it quite perplexing two hours later to be in my room at the RIU Panama Plaza sending emails while having a room service snack. Such are the wonderful extremes of Panama.

Panama City serves numerous international airlines including American Airlines (www.aa.com)

For more information on Panama Tourism visit the Panama Tourism Bureau: www.panamainfo.com.

For tours and shuttle buses in Panama, visit www.ptysstours.com

For Embera Village visit: http://www.aventuraspanama.com/WGIRAS/GIRAS_EN/emberaindianvillage.htm

An Adirondack Olympic Experience

January 1, 2011 1:50 pm
a little whiteface - photo from ORDA

Imagine the blades of a bullet-shaped sled twisting through narrow, icy turns as gravity pulls you down a mountain at speeds of up to 50 mph. Crossing the finish line, you hear your name announced over a PA system, you pose for a photograph with your driver and brakeman. OK, so you may not have won an Olympic gold medal, but in Lake Placid, you can have a taste of what it would be like.  And it is one exhilarating way to start a weekend of Adirondack adventures.

Olympic history seems to flow through the veins of many locals and is present in many of Main Street’s businesses. Athletes from across the globe have come here twice in pursuit of gold, once in 1932 and again in 1980.

Our home for the weekend was the newly renovated High Peaks Resort in the heart of Lake Placid. Surrounded

by the Adirondack Mountains, America’s largest protected wilderness, and in walking distance from downtown boutiques, High Peaks Resort is just a short three-hour drive from Ottawa on beautiful backcountry highways. It is the ideal hotel for families with both indoor and outdoor pools and a pet- friendly policy. With spacious suites and elegant décor, it also makes a perfect romantic getaway. Our room overlooked Mirror Lake, framed by the Adirondack Mountains, with a luxurious European-style bathroom including a natural stone tile shower and rainfall showerheads.

After our bobsled experience, we headed back to town and walked down Main St. for the annual Lake Placid Holiday Village Stroll, a local favourite — for very good reason.  A magical event for the whole family, there are complimentary activities and treats at every storefront. Main St. parallels Mirror Lake and provides a beautiful wintery scene. Santa was even on hand for photos. Free wine tasting, happy hours, live music, cookies, hot cocoa and apple cider were all part of the event.

Also on Main Street is High Peaks Cyclery. We dropped in to plan the next day’s outdoor excursion on Whiteface Mountain. Friendly owners Brian and Karen Delaney greeted us. As Nordic specialists with over 23 years of experience, they have expansive knowledge of the local ski trails and a large array of rental equipment.

We ventured to Caffé Rustica for a gourmet dinner. Known for wood-fired pizzas, it is also a European-style restaurant with Mediterranean cuisine with menu choices such as sautéed shrimp with garlic, shallots, white wine and lemon over herbed risotto and tuna steak with asparagus salsa. The Lake Placid Centre for the Arts provided the evening’s entertainment where we caught the Nutcracker Ballet.

Nordic ski specialists Brian and Karen at High Peaks Cyclery.

Nordic ski specialists Brian and Karen at High Peaks Cyclery.

The next day we met Brian and Karen at Whiteface Mountain, which has the greatest vertical drop east of the Rockies. (There are ski runs for every level.) The highest skiable terrain stands at 4,650 ft. We were geared up with brand new ski equipment from Scarpa and Black Diamond to trek up the hill. Ideal for backcountry skiing, climbing skins are stuck to the bottom of the skis for grip and an alpine trekker binding is attached to the boot, giving the heel lift and leverage. Once you reach the top of the hill, you can adjust the binding to ski down. This is called “earning your turns” and makes for a great workout. After this lesson, we tried telemark skiing, which is also known as “free heel skiing” because the binding only connects the boot to the skis at the toe allowing you to completely flex your knee and fully bend the turning leg. Named after the Telemark region of Norway this technique was first brought to public attention around 1868. Our excursion with Brian and Karen was a highlight of our trip.

That night, we ate in High Peaks’ Dancing Bears Restaurant. American food fare is served up in a bistro-style. A variety of sandwiches, pizza, nachos and burgers are offered as well as homemade soups and salads.

Our final day in Lake Placid was spent skiing and snowboarding at Whiteface Mountain. The gondola ride with views of the surrounding Adirondacks was breathtaking. Lake Placid is a gold medal vacation destination for residents of the National Capital Region. With a variety of outdoor activities to suit any ability, gourmet restaurants and boutique shopping, this friendly and quaint town has no shortage of things to do.

When You Go

WHITEFACE MOUNTAIN – Grab an Olympic Passport and try the bobsled or skeleton experience, visit the Ski jump complex or the Olympic Museum. Whiteface Mountain is also the #1 ski resort in the Eastern United States and provides excellent conditions for skiers of all abilities with 86 trails. 5021 Rt. 86, Wilmington. 1-877-SKIFACE. www.whiteface.com.

DANCING BEARS RESTAURANT – Where past Olympians celebrated their victories on the slopes and ice is a welcoming family-style atmosphere perfect for street watching and enjoying American fare. 2384 Saranac Ave. (518) 523-1120. www.highpeaksresort.com

SUGAR SHACK DESSERT CO. – Red velvet cupcakes, white chocolate macadamia nut cookies and brownies all made from scratch. 2567 Main St. (518) 523-7540.

CAFFE RUSTICA – Gourmet Mediterranean style food in a warm, rustic restaurant with an impressive wine list. 1936 Saranac Ave. (518) 523-7511. www.cafferustica.com.

HIGH PEAKS MOUNTAIN GUIDES HOUSE (AND LODGING) – Everything you need to plan an exciting adventure with rental equipment, a resource library including maps, books and expertly-trained guides in rock climbing, hiking, backpacking, kayaking, mountain biking and more. 2733 Main St. (518) 523-2368. www.hpmountainguides.com

An Adirondack Olympic Experience

December 14, 2010 9:50 am
Whiteface Mountain.

Imagine the blades of a bullet-shaped sled twisting through narrow, icy turns as gravity pulls you down a mountain at speeds of up to 50 mph. Crossing the finish line, you hear your name announced over a PA system, you pose for a photograph with your driver and brakeman. OK, so you may not have won an Olympic gold medal, but in Lake Placid, you can have a taste of what it would be like. And it is one exhilarating way to start a weekend of Adirondack adventures.

Lake Placid Bobsled Experience.

Olympic history seems to flow through the veins of many locals and is present in many of Main Street’s businesses. Athletes from across the globe have come here twice in pursuit of gold, once in 1932 and again in 1980.

Our home for the weekend was the newly renovated High Peaks Resort in the heart of Lake Placid. Surrounded by the Adirondack Mountains, America’s largest protected wilderness, and in walking distance from downtown boutiques, High Peaks Resort is just a short three-hour drive from Ottawa on beautiful back country highways. It is the ideal hotel for families with both indoor and outdoor pools and a pet- friendly policy. With spacious suites and elegant décor, it also makes a perfect romantic getaway. Our room overlooked Mirror Lake, framed by the Adirondack Mountains, with a luxurious European-style bathroom including a natural stone tile shower and rainfall showerheads.

The rustic lobby at High Peaks Resort.

After our bobsled experience, we headed back to town and walked down Main St. for the annual Lake Placid Holiday Village Stroll, a local favourite — for very good reason. A magical event for the whole family, there are complimentary activities and treats at every storefront. Main St. parallels Mirror Lake and provides a beautiful wintery scene. Santa was even on hand for photos. Free wine tasting, happy hours, live music, cookies, hot cocoa and apple cider were all part of the event.

Also on Main Street is High Peaks Cyclery. We dropped in to plan the next day’s outdoor excursion on Whiteface Mountain. Friendly owners Brian and Karen Delaney greeted us. As Nordic specialists with over 23 years of experience, they have expansive knowledge of the local ski trails and a large array of rental equipment.

We ventured to Caffé Rustica for a gourmet dinner. Known for wood- fired pizzas, it is also a European-style restaurant with Mediterranean cuisine with menu choices such as sautéed shrimp with garlic, shallots, white wine and lemon over herbed risotto and tuna steak with asparagus salsa. The Lake Placid Centre for the Arts provided the evening’s entertainment where we caught the Nutcracker Ballet.

The next day we met Brian and Karen at Whiteface Mountain, which has the greatest

Whiteface Mountain.

vertical drop east of the Rockies. (There are ski runs for every level.) The highest skiable terrain stands at 4,650 ft. We were geared up with brand new ski equipment from Scarpa and Black Diamond to trek up the hill. Ideal for backcountry skiing, climbing skins are stuck to the bottom of the skis for grip and an alpine trekker binding is attached to the boot, giving the heel lift and leverage. Once you reach the top of the hill, you can adjust the binding to ski down. This is called “earning your turns” and makes for a great workout. After this lesson, we tried telemark skiing, which is also known as “free heel skiing” because the binding only connects the boot to the skis at the toe allowing you to completely flex your knee and fully bend the turning leg. Named after the Telemark region of Norway this technique was first brought to public attention around 1868. Our excursion with Brian and Karen was a highlight of our trip.

That night, we ate in High Peaks’ Dancing Bears Restaurant. American food fare is served up in a bistro- style. A variety of sandwiches, pizza, nachos and burgers are offered as well as homemade soups and salads.

Olympic ski jump.

Our final day in Lake Placid was spent skiing and snowboarding at Whiteface Mountain. The gondola ride with views of the surround- ing Adirondacks was breathtaking. Lake Placid is a gold medal vacation destination for residents of the National Capital Region. With a variety of outdoor activities to suit any ability, gourmet restaurants and boutique shopping, this friendly and quaint town has no shortage of things todo.

When You Go:

WHITEFACE MOUNTAIN – Grab an Olympic Passport and try the bobsled or skeleton experience, visit the Ski jump complex or the Olympic Museum. Whiteface Mountain is also the #1 ski resort in the Eastern United States and provides excellent conditions for skiers of all abilities with 86 trails. 5021 Rt. 86, Wilmington. 1-877-SKIFACE. www.whiteface.com.

DANCING BEARS RESTAURANT – Where past Olympians celebrated their victories on the slopes and ice is a welcoming family-style atmosphere perfect for street watching and enjoying American fare. 2384 Saranac Ave. (518) 523-1120. www.highpeaksresort.com

SUGAR SHACK DESSERT CO. – Red velvet cupcakes, white chocolate macadamia nut cookies and brownies all made from scratch. 2567 Main St. (518) 523-7540.

CAFFE RUSTICA – Gourmet Mediterranean style food in a warm, rustic restaurant with an impressive wine list. 1936 Saranac Ave. (518) 523-7511. www.cafferustica.com.

HIGH PEAKS MOUNTAIN GUIDES HOUSE (AND LODGING) – Everything you need to plan an exciting adventure with rental equipment, a resource library including maps, books and expertly-trained guides in rock climbing, hiking, backpacking, kayaking, mountain biking and more. 2733 Main St. (518) 523-2368. www.hpmountainguides.com

Ireland Welcomes You Home

July 1, 2009 10:23 am
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Your Irish Heritage Is Waiting To Be Discovered.

It seemed fitting to take my daughter on a trip to Ireland to explore the land of her paternal ancestors. Thanks to the mild oceanic climate, the south and south west of Ireland are a beautiful lush green carpet peppered with towns, farms and plenty of history.

Ireland’s rich history includes settlements dating back to 8000 BC, the arrival of the Vikings in 800AD and the English conquest in the mid 1500’s but it’s the history of the potato that has shaped modern-day Ireland. More potatoes were grown per acre than any other crop. Locals benefited by the root vegetable’s ability to survive the ravages of war by laying hidden underground. The Irish population flourished thanks to the potato but in 1845 a lethal fungus attacked  the  crop  leading to  complete  crop  failure  in  1848  and  the  resulting  Great  Irish Famine. As a consequence, millions of Irish emigrated abroad seeking a new life.

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The Dunbrody Famine Ship in New Ross.

The first stop on our heritage holiday was the Dunbrody Famine Ship in the quaint town of New Ross, County Wexford. Located in the ancestral home of former American president John F. Kennedy, the trust in his name funded the construction of the replica ship. Although seaworthy, the Dundbrody is permanently moored, serving instead as a living museum. After viewing  a short  film,  we  took  a  guided  tour.  A  highlight  was  the  performance  by  two actresses playing the part of ship patrons. From 1846 to 1865, the Dunbrody and many other ships like it ferried passengers fleeing the famine to the Americas. Life was not easy on these cargo ships that were fitted with bunks for the voyage to America. Quarters were very cramped and unhygienic. Access to fresh air and light was limited to a half hour per day, weather permitting – and that wasn’t often. Many died during the crossings and the ships were given the inglorious nickname of coffin ships. Upon arrival, the bunks were torn out and the hulls filled with timber, cotton and guano for the voyage home.

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Cobh as seen from one of its many piers.

Further west, in the Cork Harbor sits the port city of Cobh (pronounced Cove). The second deepest natural harbor in the world, Cobh was the single most important port for emigrants. More than 2.5 million adults and children left Ireland by its shores. The Cobh Heritage Centre is a wonderful little museum situated in the old Victorian railway station. Built in 1890, the station would have seen a host of Irish emigrant traffic. My daughter was very excited to learn that her great, great grandparents likely came through that exact station on their way to Canada. The museum has excellent displays that provide insight into conditions on the famine ships and the convict ships as well as describing the background that led to the exodus. The Centre also pays homage to the victims of the Lusitania, sunk by German U-boats during WWI, and the Titanic. For genealogists, the museum offers a research service that  can  be  accessed  on  site  or  online.  The  Centre  also runs  a  monthly  heritage  story contest. Written works can be submitted at story@cohbheritage.com.

We  were  lucky  to  be  in  Cobh  the  day  of  the 2009  South  of  Ireland  Pipe  Band Championships.The  highlight was  at  the  end  of  the  day  when more than  80  (I  stopped counting) pipers from different bands all played at once. On April 11, 1912 the Titanic made its final stop in Cobh (formerly known as Queenstown) before heading out on its maiden voyage. One hundred and twenty seven passengers boarded the ship in Cobh, forty of whom survived.  Many  of the  same  buildings  are  still  intact  including  the  famed  Cunard  Lines offices. Unfortunately, Michael Martin, a local Titantic historian, was unavailable to take us on his world famous Titanic Trail walk which brings to life the strong maritime history of Cobh. We purchased a guidebook from the tourism office and headed out on our own. The walk took us up a steep hill to St. Colman’s cathedral designed in 1868 by the famous E.W. Pugin in the neo French gothic style. The cathedral has the only carillon in all of Ireland.

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Discover the beauty Killarney by taking a tour through the scenic Gap of Dunloe. The tour inlcudes return transport to Killarney by boat, landing at historic Ross Castle.

Our  next  stop  was  Killarney.  The  copper-rich  area  dates  back  4,000  years  but  is  now referred to as the tourism capital of Ireland. Killarney and the surrounding areas are teeming with ancient pagan and Christian sites as well as breathtaking scenery, pristine beaches and plenty  of golf courses.  In  1861,  Queen  Victoria  visited English  nobleman Henry  Arthur Herbert, staying at his estate in Killarney. Impressed by the area and its beauty she decreed that it should become a National Park. Today, of the 26,000 thousand acres occupied by the park almost half of the area is the Bourn Vincent Memorial Park with the focal point being Herbert’s Muckross House. The mansion, its gardens and furnishing give great insight into local 19th century life and craftsmanship. Hire a bike, hike, or take a jaunting car (an Irish calèche) but do explore this UNESCO designated biosphere reserve. We joined a group to explore the Gap of Dunloe, a glacial breach valley with fantastic views, and decided on a horse  and  trap  as  the  weather  was unseasonably  hot. We  returned  to  Killarney  by  boat landing at Ross Castle in Lough Leane. The castle grounds begged us to sit and stay. We lingered by the waters edge until our hunger got the best of us.

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The view from Muckross House near Killarney.

Our hostess Kathleen, from Kathleen’s Country Inn in Killarney, expressed dismay at the large tour buses that motor into town and then rush off again full of passengers eager to kiss the Blarney Stone. In her opinion, the true spirit of Ireland is alive in the Dingle peninsula. Ranked 18 on the 2008 World’s Top 100 Destinations in Europe, Dingle didn’t disappoint. Our only regret is that we didn’t have more time to explore this Irish gem.

Before leaving Killarney we doubled back to tour Ross Castle. Reconstructed using period materials  and  techniques,  this  14th  century  castle  is  alive with history  and  a  is  fantastic experience. The military stronghold of the O’Donoghue Clan, the castle fell to Cromwellian forces in 1652. Quarters are tight and tours are limited to groups of twelve so make sure to book ahead.

Our last stop was Ireland’s third largest city, Galway (pop. 72,729). The principle port of trade  with Spain  and  France  during  the  middle  ages,  it  is  currently  known  for  its  arts, theatre, television and radio sector. Galway was the only European stop on the 2009 Volvo Ocean Race. Referred to as the “Mount Everest of sailing” it is a grueling 39,000 nautical mile race around the world. The city was booming as it hosted this two-week festival. We took in the free entertainment and marveled at all the sleek boats.

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A vine covered gate on the grounds of Lord Brandon’s Cottage near Killarney.

As Europe’s least populated country, Ireland is easy to navigate. It takes no time to get accustomed to driving on ‘the wrong side’ of the road but a little more time to adjust to the twisty, bumpy country lanes and the roundabouts. Fast food outlets can be found in larger cities but were happily absent in most of the towns we visited. Even though my daughter embraced her Irish heritage, learning more in a week than she ever would have at school, she was firm in letting me know that there would be no bag-piping in her future as the outfits were so ‘not cool.’ Whether your interests lie in history, genealogy… or Guinness, plan a visit to Ireland. Its natural beauty and friendly people will have you wishing you had Irish heritage too.

Click here for more information about Irish tourism.

Shelter for the Soul

April 1, 2009 10:49 am
April09_NFLD_BoatsMoored

Western Newfoundland: A place that rush hour forgot.

Stepping out of the airport in Deer Lake you can feel your gears shifting down almost immediately. Things just are calmer and gentler in Western Newfoundland.

Our trip began with a drive south toward the town of Stephenville. The location of a U.S. WWII base Stephenville is a proud little town that has been plagued by recent plant closures. In the music shop on Main street you can find accordions of all sizes and colours. We picked up a couple of sandwiches at Danny’s Bake Shop and headed to the Port au Port Peninsula for our first hike. The rain was coming down hard so we drove the loop around the Peninsula and marveled at the well-kept houses of this French speaking community. The closest thing to a store that we saw was a man selling fresh produce out of the back of a cube van. The scenery was spectacular. We gave into the weather, donned our rain suits and hit the hiking trail. It was absolutely pouring but the trail was fantastic.

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The Corner Brook Stream Trail is a groomed hiking trail that is accessible from many points including most hotels in the downtown.

Next was Corner Brook. This small farming village set in a beautiful valley exploded into a town when Bowater opened a sawmill. The plant, now operated by Kruger Incorporated, is enormous. At first glance it seems like an eyesore but a visit to the local museum puts everything in perspective and you realize how the mill management created the “town” for their workers with a bisecting green space that includes a trail system and even a swimming spot. The water is so clean you can see the bottom.

We continued our visit of Corner Brook with Cycle Solutions who offer cycle tours, trips and other adventures. From the top of James Cooke National Historic Site high on the south side of town we rode down through the neighborhood streets. It was a steep, thrilling ride. I marveled at the number of homes with doors well above ground level that seemed to serve no purpose. The boys from Cycle Solutions called these mother-in-law doors. Must be Newfie humour! We headed toward the mouth of the Humber River on the north end of town and stopped for a tour of the Railway Society of Newfoundland’s museum. With tongue firmly planted in cheek, the train, no longer in service, is referred to as the Newfie Bullet. The museum and train tour give a glimpse into the history of the province. Our ride back to Cycle Solutions was a little more challenging but well worth the work. Back at the bike shop, I thanked the guys and visited Brewed Awakenings next door for a well-earned smoothie.

We stocked up on trail mix and beef jerky and headed for Gros Morne National Park. Just outside of town, we passed the local ski are, Marble Mountain, that gets an average of 16 feet of snow every year and the temperature rarely dips below -5̊C. Corner Brook is an outdoor adventure paradise!

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Kayaking on Bonne Bay with Gross Morne in the background.

Further up the highway we turned onto Route 430, the Viking Trail, and the entrance to Gros Morne National Park. A UNESCO world heritage site, the National Park is unlike most as it has small communities peppered throughout the park. Forewarned about Newfie speed bumps, it didn’t take long to find one — a moose that is. The park is full of them. It’s also full of hiking trails. With over 100 kms of trails that range from short and easy to long and strenuous there is something for everyone.

We stopped for the night at the Shallow Bay Motel in Cow Head, a family owned business that makes you feel like you have come home again. Not only is it one of the friendliest little motels it also has great entertainment. Proprietor, Darryl House teamed up with the Corner Brook based Theatre Newfoundland Labrador (TNL) to bring the Gros Morne Theatre Festival to town. Now working on its 14 season, this summer theatre festival is top shelf. The TNL has toured its plays in 6 Canadian provinces, the UK and Australia. Offering two shows a night the company’s productions offer a glimpse of rural life in Newfoundland. We were lucky enough to see two shows. Keep an eye on the GCTC schedule as Ottawa is regular stop for TNL productions.

Western Brook Pond is nothing like the name suggests but well worth the 3 km hike in. We bought tickets dockside and boarded a boat for a guided tour of the fjords.The billion year-old cliffs are spectacular. It was great to chat with other tourist and swap stories. On the trip back to dock our captain kept us entertained with local music.

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The view across Bonne Bay from Neddies Harbour Inn, Norris Point. The red glow of the Tablelands is visible on the horizon.

At Norris Point we visited the Bonne Bay Marine Station. A world-class research and teaching facility, it is open to the public for Interactive Aquarium Tours. The biologist filled us with a wealth of information about the unparalleled marine ecosystem of the bay. We met Pierre the two-toned American lobster and learnt a whole bunch of nifty facts including the scallop myth. Apparently, if you’re eating a scallop anywhere west of Nova Scotia — you’re likely not. A ray like, shellfish-smelling fish called Skate is caught, cut and sold to us “westerners” as scallops.

 

Full of local bay knowledge, we set off for an afternoon paddle on the Bonne Bay. Gros Morne Adventures offer daily, guided tours that leave from their beach-front shop in Norris Point. With the view of the Tablelands on one side and Gros Morne Mountain looming large on the other side, we paddled out onto the bay. It didn’t take long to get the hang of a two-man sea kayak. We saw a mink scurry by on the rocky shore and a Humpback whale surface about 40 feet in front of us. An eagle flew overhead. Wow, simply spectacular!

Completely sastisfied with our day’s adventure we headed to Neddies Harbour Inn for the night. A beautiful spot looking out over Bonne Bay, Neddies has a spa like atmosphere. We enjoyed a superb meal and hit the hay. Next up was an early morning, guided hike.

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Parks Canada Interpreters run seasonal, daily activities like the Discovery Hike on the Tablelands.

Some 500 million years ago, the rocks of the Tablelands were the underside of the ocean’s floor. Their red glow can be seen from most vantage points in Gros Morne. During the Parks Canada hike on the Tablelands Trail, the interpreter explained how millions of years ago the rock was forced up to the surface. It’s incredibly barren atop this rocky terrain but an odd little plant call the Pitcher plant has carved out an existence. Like a mini Venus’s-flytrap, it’s an example of nature’s uncanny ability to adapt to its surroundings. As the weather became unbearably hot the guide shared with us one of his favourite swimming holes. “Just past Birchie Head take a right just before the bridge. Park and hike in.” After a stop for sandwiches,it didn’t take us long to find the spot. The swimming was glorious. A few local boys came to jump off the rocks up stream and a lady arrived with her dog. We stayed all afternoon.

On our last day in Newfoundland we drove out to Trout River on the Gulf of St. Lawrence and enjoyed dinner and the sunset at the Seaside Restaurant. Gros Morne is the antithesis of the ready-made destination. It’s about slowing down, exploring nooks and crannies and finding yourself. With its ancient mountains, fjords, hiking trails and beautiful sandy beaches, your soul will find peace.

Vienna

March 24, 2009 3:23 pm
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I knew as soon as I stepped on the Austrian Airlines plane that this was going to be a great trip. The airline staff in their classy red outfits were genuinely friendly and made a bit of a fuss over my daughter. Their motto is “we fly for your smile” and my daughter was already beaming.

Arriving at Vienna Airport, we took the 16 minute City Airport Train (CAT) to city centre (www.cityairporttrain.com) and found our way, to our hotel located in the 7th district. Also called Spittelberg, this area is famous for its artistic flair and is known for its proximity to Vienna’s great museums. As we walked the final block from the subway stop to the hotel, a dusting of snow covered the city. People were dotting in and out of the numerous espresso shops and cafés as the city came alive. Vienna was waking in all its winter splendour and we were pretty excited that we would have 6 days to learn more about its charms.

We checked in the Hotel Altstadt Vienna (www.alstadt.at), with its numerous paintings and were greeted with a warm and friendly welcome. The hotel has 42 elegantly decorated rooms and no two are alike. All the amenities, including computer access 24/7, make the Hotel Altstadt a gem in the heart of Vienna. The Englishstyle Red Salon Room with its oversized and grand windows offers a wonderful breakfast buffet and a bar, where you can relax next to the open fireplace. As the week progressed, we would start and end our days in this wonderful room. The service was impeccable and the staff friendly and helpful.

It was February and this already vibrant city was celebrating one of its biggest weeks of the year — the week of the Viennese Ball. Vienna has about 150 public balls listed in the ball calendar (www.ballkalender.info) with some events having an attendance of up to 5000 — this in a city of only 1.5 million. The excitement made me want to return and experience one first-hand.

One of the most revered buildings in Vienna is the Austrian Parliament Buildings (www.parlament.gv.at). Designed in Greek revival style by notable architect Baron Theophil von Hansen and built using Austrian marble — a tour proved to be a great way to start our trip. Our guide described the history of the buildings, the government, the people, and much of the history of the former Austrian Hapsburg monarchy which was helpful throughout the trip. Next up was the Vienna Ice Dream, a 5,600 squaremetre outdoor ice skating rink on the grounds of a wonderfully illuminated Vienna City Hall. You can rent skates or bring your own. Afterwards, relax at a large heated marquee, sampling apple strudel, crispy waffles or a baked potato concoction called Kasespatzle.

The next day we visited the inner city which included the famous Hofburg Palace and Sisi-Museum. The Hofburg Imperial Palace is mammoth in size, consisting of over 2600 rooms and was the seat of one of the most powerful and successful families in Europe, the Habsburgs, who ruled over much of Europe from the 12th century right up until the first World War. The Palace served as the family’s headquarters and winter residence. The Hofburg Palace features many different architectural styles ranging from Gothic to Baroque to Art Nouveau and is so grand and overwhelming in scope that it singularly has the effect of highlighting the great achievements of the Hapsburg Dynasty. Today, the Hofburg Palace is also the home of the Vienna Boys Choir and houses many offices of government, including the President of Austria’s official seat. Next to the Palace is the famous Heldenplatz (Heroes Square) where a number of statues celebrating the Habsburg’s victories can be found. The Palace is also home to the Sisi Museum which was a big hit with my daughter.

The Sisi Museum in the Imperial Apartments of the Imperial Palace looks at the life of the celebrated Empress Elisabeth (Sisi), who has become a cult figure. Elisabeth’s private life is at the center of the exhibition. From her carefree time as a young girl in Bavaria to her surprising engagement with to the Austrian emperor to her 1898 assassination in Geneva, the museum shows the restless life of the legendary empress. A fascinating woman, she was at once an athlete, a feminist, a mother, a spouse and an Empress and had an insatiable interest in other cultures, in travel and in liberty. She was in many ways a century ahead of her time. We spent several hours at the Sisi Museum and even then there was more to see.

The birthplace of the coffee house scene, Vienna lives up to the reputation as the ‘coffee house capital’ of the world. We stoppped for lunch at Café Central, one of the most famous cafés located a short walk from the Hofburg Palace. Freud, Trotsky and Lenin and others all sipped hot coffee here, mulling over the great quandaries of their day. Today the Café is a resplendent room that retains its original 1857 design. The best rule for finding the cool cafés of Vienna is to follow the Ringstraase (the wide avenue that surrounds the old city). Bear in mind, many of Austria’s coffee shops allow smoking inside.

We spent the rest of the day strolling around central Vienna, admiring the statues, visiting the old Stephansdom cathedral and visiting many of the shops and boutiques. At Mozart House (www.mozarthaus.at) we experienced Wolfgang Amadeus Mozarts’s classical music in the unique and original Sala Terrena room where Mozart himself composed and played so many of his great pieces. The early evening performance by a virtuosic quartet was a magical evening. It was a highlight of the trip. It was great to see my violin-playing daughter revel in the mastery of the talented musicians whose instruments seemed to play themselves.

The entire next day was spent in Vienna’s famous Museums Quarter, one of the ten largest cultural complexes in the world (www.mqw.at). Located in the heart of the city, the Museums Quarter comprises historical buildings from the 18th and the 19th centuries which have been combined into a single entity of 20 museums, cultural organizations, shops, cafes and restaurants. Together they make up Vienna’s longest Baroque façade. Billed as an art space, creativity space and living space, the museums and exhibition halls are closely tied to modern day art, artists and culture in Vienna.

The Museum of Modern Art, Ludwig Foundation Vienna or “MUMOK”, is the largest Central European museum for modern and contemporary art. Next up was the Leopold Museum with thousands of works of Austrian art and the world’s largest collection of works by Egon Schiele. We also took in an exhibit of the works of the famous Austrian artist Gustaf Klimt. The Kunsthalle Vienna showcases video, film, photography and some pretty odd looking architecture. We also dropped by ZOOM Children’s Museum, Austria’s first children’s museum which includes a sensory play zone for young children exhibits and a multimedia lab.

Other arts and culture institutions within the Museums Quarter include The Vienna Architecture Center, the Tobacco Museum and the new Children’s Theatre which hosts puppet shows, musicals and opera from Austria and other countries.

Ten minutes from the Museums Quarter are yet more museums such as the Art History Museum or Kunst Historishe Museum (www.khm.at), a must see for its architecturally dazzling design and exceptional exhibits. We spent a full day here visiting the Egyptology Exhibit, a Greco- Roman exhibit, several renaissance era painters’ exhibits and a wonderful wing on historic coins. Directly across the way you can visit the Natural History Museum. Next up was a short visit to the Schmetterlinghaus at Burggarten (www.schmetterlinghaus. at), one of the world’s most beautiful art nouveau structures in the Imperial Palace which has been turned into a year round greenhouse for butterflies. Afterward we had lunch at the Palmery next to the Schmetterkinghaus, a very popular restaurant (www.palmenhaus. at) that on Fridays becomes a popular dance club for locals.

When visiting Vienna make sure to drop by the Haus Der Musik (www. hdm.at). We spent five hours in this amazing music museum located near the Vienna State Opera. Its multimedia and interactive exhibits challenge you to experience music and sounds in a whole new way. This place is a music historian’s dream. There is an exhibit on the great Austrian composers (Mozart, Strauss, Mahler, Hayden etc), one on the Vienna Boys Choir and there is even the chance sit in a small theatre and listen to the Vienna Symphony Orchestra in surround sound.

Afterward we headed over to Figlmuller Restaurant (www.figlmueller.at) known throughout Vienna for its famous wiener schnitzel. The place was packed. Seating is border house style so you end up sitting next to people you have never met — which makes for great conversations. Wiener schnitzel is Austria’s most famous dish and this place did not disappoint.

Our final day in Vienna began with breakfast at Cafe Sperl. We spent the rest of the morning at the world’s most famous riding hall, the Winter Riding School, (www. viennaticketonline.com) located in Vienna’s Imperial Hofburg Palace and home to the famous Lipizzans, Europe’s oldest and highly prized breed of horses. The Lipizzans and their riders enchant visitors from all over the world with their truly unique performances and we marveled at the skills of both the horses and riders.

We then hopped on the subway and went to Prater Amusement Park, (www.prater.at) a popular spot for kids and families with over 250 attractions. Many of them are closed in the winter months but the nostalgic ultra high Ferris wheel is open year round allowing for a unique bird’s eye view of all of Vienna.

For our last evening we rode the tram just to see where it would take us. We roamed through parts of Vienna that we would not normally have seen. It’s a great thing to do to just watch people go about their business and take in new neighbourhoods. Each street was a new experience. As we walked back to the hotel from our last tram ride, it began to snow as if on cue to finish off a perfect trip.

WHEN YOU GO:

• Once you depart CAT at the city centre (Wien-Mitte) you can access the multitude of subways and trams available to travel throughout Vienna. Children under 14 are free and a round trip is 15 euros. However, if you purchase a Vienna Card (www.wien.info/ en/travel-info/vienna-card)the round trip by CAT is only 7.50 Euros.

• For only 18.50, Euros the “Vienna Card” offers 72 hours unlimited use of public transport within city limits and includes discounts at many museums, some restaurants and cafés, shops and other tourism-related services. Available in hotels and at the tourist information centre on Albertinaplatz and the tourist information point at the a irport. We highly recommend it.

• On Sunday, just about everything is closed except hotels, coffee shops, and internet cafes. But the big art museum, the Kunst Historiche Museum, is open. For more info on Vienna visit www.vienna.info.

RV Road Trip — Family of Five – One Heck of a Ride!

March 22, 2009 3:43 pm
rv_mar2010

The idea of traveling in a recreational vehicle (RV) with your spouse and kids for three weeks in the summer sounds like one of those amazing things you need to do in life when your kids are the right age. Imagine traveling for three weeks in extreme comfort in a 35 foot recreational vehicle. I always had an interest in purchasing an RV, so I figured why not rent one for a month and give it the old test drive?

These days, RVs are so sophisticated they can be used year round. In fact, there is a whole stealth community of permanent RV users in North America who virtually live and travel in these “road homes”. Skiers love them too and often you’ll see RVs parked around ski resorts. Of course, summer is still the most popular time for travel.

In Canada, RVs are easy to come by with national chain outlets and local RV dealerships renting them out. A growing number of campgrounds also offer on-site rentals. Most RV rental companies provide “housekeeping” packages (dishes, pots, pans, etc.) for a nominal fee. Even if you’re driving or towing an RV for the first time, features like automatic transmissions, power brakes and steering and extension mirrors on both sides of the vehicle make it easy for experienced drivers to adjust to the difference in size, height, and weight. Our RV was amazing. There was a full bathroom with a shower, a kitchen (with lots of cupboard space), a stove, oven, microwave and refrigerator. There were even two flat screen televisions, which were convenient to have during a rainstorm. There was a bunk bed over the driver’s section and two very comfortable fold-out beds in the front. The design of these RVs is quite exceptional and every detail has been worked out for maximum space and comfort. The sound system was also fantastic.

When I arrived home with the Family Truckster, the kids were very excited. They had loads of fun selecting their sleeping spot and packing the RV for the journey. We took the option of renting a bike rack that easily attached on to the back of the RV. I must admit that driving the 35 foot living room on wheels was much easier than I anticipated. The trick is to always have a spotter when backing up or making slow and wide turns. The rideis very smooth and it really was as easy as driving my car. Never exceeding 100 km per hour, I averaged 750-800 kilometres before spending between $130-150 dollars to fill the tank. This was much better than I had expected. We loaded the vehicle up with a full stock of groceries and we were on our way. I was excited and so were the kids.

The first part of our trip was to take us from Ontario’s Muskoka region through Algonquin Park down to Ottawa, across to Montreal and up to Quebec City, where we planned to stay for 3 days. Part two would take us to New Brunswick followed by a ferry to Nova Scotia and then later another ferry to Maine and back home via Vermont and Quebec. We were ready to roll. I got a Rogers rocket stick so I could get wireless access on my laptop and we were on our way.

 

QUEBEC CITY

Believe it or not, Québec City has an RV park in the middle of Old Québec right next to the port, conveniently situated right next to the city’s bike pathway. After a full day of driving we took the kids to get their sillies out at Village Vacances Valcartier, a massive waterslide park 20 minutes North of Québec City (www.valcartier.com). In winter, it’s a snow tubing park but in summer it transforms into Canada’s largest water-park with rides and slides for everyone. The owners also offer daily white river rafting expeditions on the Jacques Cartier River.

Old Québec has such charm and it really comes alive in the summer. The world renowned Cirque de Soleil presented Chemin Invisible — a free performance all summer long. Cirque performers make their way through the streets of three neighbourhoods in Old Québec and meet at Îlot Fleurie under the Dufferin-Montmorency highway overpass. Their show begins at nightfall and lasts 60 -70 minutes including the parade through the streets. The shows are nightly all summer until Labour Day.

Be sure to catch renowned Québec artist, playwright, film director Robert Lepage’s Image Mill, a mega projection (sound and light show) that recounts Quebec City’s 400 years of history using the Old Port’s 600-metre wide grain silos as a screen. This can be seen nightly from the river front in the old port.

Old Québec City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is North America’s only remaining fortified city. It celebrated its 400 anniversary in 2008. Different guided walking tours are available through the tourist bureau website (http://www.quebecregion.com). We made our way on our bicycles visiting the Plains of Abraham, the National Assembly Buildings and then biked along the shoreline and back up through the streets of Old Québec gazing at the beautiful murals and well manicured lawns and parks.

 

NEW BRUNSWICK

We left Québec City and made our way north along the St. Lawrence and up past Rivière-du-Loup towards the New Brunswick border. It is a comfortable day’s drive from Québec City to the quaint seaside village of Saint Andrews, New Brunswick, a town that has been welcoming vacationers for more than 100 years. It is home to the Fairmont’s Algonquin Hotel and Algonquin Golf Course is said to be the best course in the Maritimes. The area boasts whale watching, the Huntsman Marine Science Aquarium as well as sea kayaking. We spent a day exploring the Kingsbrae Garden and caught the daily lady bug release. This 27 acre site seems overwhelming on a hot summer day but each section is so different from the last that you never lose interest. I am glad I checked with New Brunswick Tourism who recommended Kingsbrae Garden as a family activity. It was not something I would have thought to do but it turned out to be one of the highlights of our time in New Brunswick.

NOVA SCOTIA

We were excited to leave for our next adventure in Nova Scotia. We drove to Saint John, NB to board the Princess of Acadia ferry (http://www.acadiaferry.com) that would take us from Saint John to Digby, NS.

We strolled the decks and felt the Bay of Fundy wind in our faces as we searched the bay for a whale sighting. We were rewarded, so be sure to bring binoculars.

We rolled off the ferry at Digby at headed for Kejimkujik National Park in Nova Scotia’s interior. This traditional Mi’kmaw land is a 381 square kilometre biosphere reserve rich in plant and animal life. Lake Kejimkujik is affectionately referred to as Keji and is a beautiful dark lake similar in colour to steeped tea. Eighty per cent of Kejimkujik Park is accessible only by canoe, including 46 wilderness camp sites.

 

After thoroughly enjoying biking, swimming and camp fires nights at Keji, we headed out again towards the coast to place called Rissers Beach Provincial Park (www.novascotiaparks.ca). RV camping does not get any better than at Rissers. This is literally RV camping on the beach where you can experience firsthand the splendour of the Atlantic. The kids spent the days in the water swimming and building sandcastles and running along the extensive boardwalk alongside the beach. The roar of the surf, the warmth of a fire, a great beach and a wonderful home cooked meal courtesy of the RV kitchen — RV life on the road really doesn’t get any better. Camp or visit the beach for the day.

Along the south shore, there are numerous family activities and stops that are worthwhile including the scenic village of LaHave, NS – capital of New France from 1632-1636, and now a National Historic Site.

We left Rissers to drive to Lunenburg, a famous seaport and British settlement founded in 1753. In its glory days it was the Maritimes’ shipbuilding capital and important offshore fishing sea port. It is the birthplace of the Bluenose and home to the High Liner Fish company. Today tourism is the major industry and the importance of the town has been recognized by UNESCO, who named it a world heritage site because of its unique architecture which features grand churches, wooden houses and a rectangular grid layout that is one of the best examples of a British colonial settlement. We spent several hours visiting Lunenburg’s Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic and toured the aquarium.

The next morning we drove along the Atlantic Coast toward Peggy’s Cove. You could see the Atlantic ocean crashing up against the rocks. We toured the small community and then had a hearty breakfast at the Peggy’s Cove Restaurant. The children were excited and asking all kinds of questions about our adventure for the day, sea kayaking.

We had arranged to go out for several hours in Margaret’s Bay with Eastcoast Outfitters (www.eastcoastoutfitters. net). Margaret’s Bay was at one time a small fishing village but that industry has collapsed and the locals turned to the area’s natural beauty and resources making tourism and outdoor recreational activity a key part of their economic development.

This shop is first class all the way with top notch equipment and excellent guides. We were outfitted with life vest, paddles and skirts and then matched with our own kayaks. We headed out with our super friendly, expert guide, Paul (a former Department of Fisheries and Oceans civil servant from Ottawa) who had retired and returned to Nova Scotia to live the ‘dream’. He was an excellent kayaker and we felt completely safe with him as we manoeuvred for a two-hour trip along the coast, sticking close to the shore around sheltered coves. Paul explained the local marine life in the shallow water and told us stories of the community and the sea. (www. eastcoastoutfitters.ne).

We left Margaret’s Bay and made our way into Halifax for a late afternoon and early evening of walking around. We took in the Busker Festival and visited the port area. Nova Scotia has over 550 festivals each year (www. novascotia.com) including Lobster festival, Scallop Festival, Tall Ship Festivals just to name a few..

The next morning we drove the fifty miles north of Halifax to experience the full effect of the Fundy Tides in at Tidal Bore Rafting Park. Tidal bore rafting is similar to white water rafting but instead of riding river water you ride a tidal bore. As water from the ocean rushes inward and crashes into the water exiting towards the ocean. Riding the tide is one of the craziest but greatest experiences you can do with your family. After a couple of hours of tidal bore rafting you then get to go mud sliding. This is a uniquely Canadian experience and was the favourite moment of the trip for all of us. Bring old clothes, sneakers and lots of soap. The site is open year round but tidal bore rafting is from May to October (http://www.tidalboreraftingpark.com).

Next up was Annapolis Royal, home to Canada’s earliest settlers and originally known as the Habitation at Port-Royal. Founded by Samuel de Champlain in 1605, Port-Royal changed hands many times and ultimately surrendered to the English in 1710. It was the capital of Nova Scotia for about 40 years until Halifax took over the title in the 1750s. Annapolis Royal is said to be one of the oldest continuously populated towns in North America. We parked the RV on a side street and wandered around in this idyllic town where time seems to stand still. We visited the Fort Anne National Historic Site and the Annapolis Basin Museum. Both are very impressive and provide insight into the daily life in New France. After two weeks in the RV, we decided to stay one night at the Auberge Wandlyn Inn Hotel in Annapolis Royal.

The next morning we were up and on our way to the Digby Scallop festival. After touring around Digby, we headed towards Yarmouth to get the afternoon CAT Ferry to Maine. The Discovery Channel called her one of the World’s Top 10 “Super Ships” and you feel like you are on the bridge of the Enterprise from Star Trek. Serving Maine and Nova Scotia – two of the world’s top vacation destinations – The CAT’s 6 hour service from Yarmouth to Bar Harbor or Portland, Maine can save 12-16 hours of driving time. We loved the sleek looking ferry and enjoyed its movie theatres, and on-board dining. We arrived relaxed and refreshed in Maine ready to take our RV road trip to the United States. The CAT Ferry was phenomenal. Sadly, in December 2009 the service was permanently cancelled due to a downturn in the economic climate. Hopefully this wonderful service will return to ferry people between Novas Scotia and Maine in the not-to-distant future.

 

We arrived in Maine at 9:00 p.m. and quickly cleared customs. We had a short twenty minute drive north to our destination, the LL Bean 24 hour store in Freeport, Maine. One of the cool things about LL Bean is that RVs can park for free overnight in the oversized lot. We joined about ten other RVs and shut down for the night. After a half day in Freeport, we were anxious to get to our next stop which was Kennebunkport, Maine. We hit the jackpot when we pulled into the beautiful Salty Acres Campground, located just outside the village of Kennebunkport near Goose Rocks Beach. Salty Acres has seen several generations of families returning annually. RVers and campers can choose an open sunny campsite or a quiet wooded one. We chose a wooded patch close to the entranceway and only meters from the campground’s pool. The campsite has wonderful bicycle trails. It was good to just lay low and enjoy the area and the RV for a couple of days.

We had a nice campfire and did all the campfire songs and stories and just really enjoyed the atmosphere. On our second day, we decided to go into the town Kennebunkport to get lunch at the famous Clam Shack, a legendary lunch place right in the middle of town. Voted by Epicurious.com as one of the top ten seafood shacks in America, the Clam Shack serves up fried clams that persuade food-loving travelers (including us) to detour many, many miles for the taste of these deep fried morsels. The lobster rolls at the Clam Shack also are said to be the best in Maine and after 30 years of making their famous lobster rolls at the Clam Shack, Steve decided to create “The Maine Lobster Roll Kit”. Each Kit Includes: 1lb of fresh picked lobster meat, 6 traditional Maine rolls, 3oz of Clam Shack mayonnaise and a recipe card. We also took a couple of pounds of lobster back for a dinner boil at Salty Acres that evening.

Maine is a summer hotspot for tourists and there are lots of them. However, there is a lot to do and it is easy to take advantage of the numerous beaches. We found the best beaches were York Beach, Ogunquit Beach but my personal favourite was Goose Rocks. After three weeks, we were beached out, lobstered out and biked out. It was time to go home but none of us were RV’d out. It was so comfortable and compact, we had become quite used to it. It was a leisurely day’s drive from Maine through New Hampshire and up through Green Mountains area of Vermont. We stopped for lunch at a wonderful diner in Montpelier, Vermont and then headed north to the border and home to Ottawa. Would we do it again? In a minute. Do we recommend it for any family? Absolutely. Am I proud to be an RV Man? Damn straight. n

 

NOTE: Our RV came from Motor Home Travel Canada Inc. in Bolton, Ontario. They provide excellent customer care and gave us great advice on how to maximize our RV experience.http://www.motorhometravel. com.

Reserve campsites at Nova Scotia Provincial Park early as they book up early (Reservations accepted after April 3, 2010).

NOTEABLE RV RESORTS IN NOVA SCOTIA: White Point Beach Resorthttp://www.whitepoint.com, Hubbards Beach Campground and Cottageshttp://www.hubbardsbeach.com, Dunromin Campsite & Cabins, Granville Ferry, NShttp://www.dunromincampsite.com/

If you are visiting Halifax-Dartmouth and are in a RV or camping you can‘t do better than Shubie Park Campground conveniently located in Dartmouth on the quiet shores of Lake Charles. Here you’ll enjoy a peaceful, wooded setting but can hop on your bike and easily get to the greater Halifax area. We enjoyed the hustle and bustle of metropolitan Halifax in the day and the tranquility of Shubie at night. http://www.shubiecampground.com

 

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